Laura Hickman – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Tata Naka: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

My last write up for this season features the new collection from the ever wonderful twins behind Tata Naka. This season they eschewed the cool light of the Portico Rooms (no longer used for LFW presentations) to show in the newly created Studio space on the lower levels of Somerset House. Given that this is a dark venue it was a wise decision to shoot with plenty of flash against a simple black backdrop, the girls rearranged on blacked out props, sometimes with parts of their body obscured. Given the complicated set designs of the past few seasons this was probably a relief to put together.

Tata Naka SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory.

This season the girls delved into a wealth of inspiration left behind by Sergei Diaghilev and his iconic Ballet Russes. The bold constructivist shapes that characterised his graphic costumes and set designs were made for these girls to expand on in their inimitable style. The collection was shown in staggered stages so that Tata Naka could shoot their look book, so I only had time to view one part. By a stroke of luck it may well have been my favourite, with geometric designs and lettering placed in great swipes of glorious colour across cream and black grounds on simple calf length strapless flapper dresses, a sleeveless playsuit and a twosie lounge suit with hexagon embellishments. For summer a simple 80s style tank swimsuit looked perfect worn with slicked back hair and heels.

Tata Naka S/S 2014 by Daisy Steele.

Other parts of the collection (which you can view here) featured dotty net dresses encrusted with giant appliqué stars, jigsaw panels in sugary pastels, and pop art style placement prints on strapless prom dresses. After a mild diversion into new territory last season this felt like Tata Naka returning to their rightful groove: every outfit a beautiful (wearable) piece of art in its own right.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Sunday September 22nd, 2013 2:02 pm

Categories ,Ballet Russes, ,Book Review, ,Daisy Steele, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Presentation, ,S/S 2014, ,Sergei Diaghilev, ,Somerset House, ,Studio, ,Tata Naka

Amelia’s Magazine | Teatum Jones: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Teatum Jones have been wowing the Amelia’s Magazine reviewers with their well thought out presentations for the past few seasons, but this was my first turn at a one of their shows. In the past this design duo have showcased collections in the RSA and Liberty, but this season their venue was the incredibly posh Dorchester Hotel – think flower arrangements in the entrance hall the size of small trees.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Guests were signed in then directed past an arrangement of fine teas and dainty biscuits into a wood lined and mirrored chamber, the centrepiece of which was a set arranged around a butterfly decorated chalkboard bookcase. The models rotated in groups of four, each replaced as the last one in the line up departed, in the kind of graceful dance that comes with great preparation and strict time keeping. Titled ‘To My Youth… How we Laughed in Darkness‘, this collection was inspired by Vladimir Nabokov, best known as the author of Lolita, a man who was obsessed with butterflies and the transience of beauty (his famous novel was written during an annual butterfly collecting trip in the western US).

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Models posed nonchalantly with open books, the covers artfully attired with the dominant print of the collection: large scale painterly splashes of red, indigo and forest green on a white ground. Designers Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones are renowned for their conceptual approach to fashion, so the story of Vladimir was translated into an array of beautiful garments using the finest fabrics, each of which was chosen for its part in that tale: ‘Delicate silk chiffons, double georgette and heavy crepes provide the canvas for these romantically sinister rows of captured species doused in javelin proportioned pins.’

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

Such intense attention to detail was translated into eminently wearable garments using the finest craftsmanship. A textured leather biker jacket was swung casually over the shoulder of a softly belted silk shirt dress, a cream polka dot lace shirt was used as the delicate base for a black puff hemmed waistcoat dress in a shiny textured wool, a miniature cape in midnight blue looked demure with cream and glittery black. But it was their fabulous print, reminiscent of huge summer blooms, that really captured my attention. It came as a relaxed sporty look in a giant hole punched shirt, as a floaty skirt and as a stunning strapless maxi dress that dropped in pleats from the bust, complete with handy pockets that the model was able to flaunt as she mosied around the room. Sod the cold weather, for A/W 2013 I dare you to wear big bold painterly florals.

Teatum Jones AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Teatum Jones A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Teatum Jones A/W 2013 by Cissy Hu.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday March 8th, 2013 11:14 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Butterflies, ,Catherine Teatum, ,Cissy Hu, ,Dorchester Hotel, ,Laura Hickman, ,liberty, ,Lolita, ,Rob Jones, ,rsa, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Teatum Jones, ,To My Youth… How we Laughed in Darkness, ,Vladimir Nabokov

Amelia’s Magazine | The 2013 FAD Awards: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

Stephanie Kitchen by Warren Clarke

The Fashion Awareness Direct (FAD) Awards are always an end-of-fashion-week treat. After five days of the freshest fashion talent dominating the catwalks at the Fashion Scout venue, FAD looks even further into the future at the best of the country’s undergraduate talent, based each season around a different theme.

Louis Anderson-Bythell – all photography by Matt Bramford

There could be no better a theme in this age of global change and austerity than ‘Future Optimism‘, which was the brief for this year’s students. Over 100 undergraduates submitted work for the competition, with fifteen entries showcased at this climatic event.

Anna Kim by Gabriel Ayala

Here’s a quick photographic rundown of the fifteen entries:

MATTHEW O’BRIEN

LUCINDA ROBERTS

STEPHANOS KONSTANTIOU

Stephanos Konstantiou by Laura Hickman

ROBERT MILLS

STEPHANIE KITCHEN

JOSEPH HORTON

CHELSEY CROSSLAND

LOUIS ANDERSON-BYTHELL

AYSHA SIMPSON

NNEKA OKORIE

KIMBERLEY PHILLIPS

LAURA CHITTENDEN

ANNA KIM

ESTELA NEVINSKAITE

MORWENNA DARWELL

And so on to the winners. It must have been a tough job for Hilary Alexander, Fashion Scout’s Martyn Roberts, Topshops’ Geraldine O’Brien, FAD’s Claire Muldoon and our pal Milly Jackson (who won the 2011 Award) to choose a winner.

Sitting at the end of the catwalk is fantastic for shots of models but not so fantastic if the awards action takes place at the opposite end.

One of my personal favourites, Nneka Okorie‘s glorious menswear, took one of the runner up prizes. Her slick trench-coats with digital printing techniques brought both expert tailoring and vivid colours to the catwalk and I loved the discrete details of city skylights on a backpack and trouser hems.

Stephanos Konstantiou took the other runner up prize with his futuristic neoprene collection with rigid cutaway details. His laser-cut houndstooth pattern was completely original, and I enjoyed the sharp silhouettes that his collection projected. Nneka and Stephanos both take home five hundred quid and an industry placement. Well done, pals!

The winner, described by Hilary Alexander as ‘unanimous’ and ‘one to watch’ for the coming seasons, was, deservedly, Stephanie Kitchen. A final year student at Bath Spa University (always a good show at Graduate Fashion Week), Stephanie’s innovative cycle wear earned cheers when it first appeared at the beginning of the show and rapturous applause when it was announced Stephanie had won. This collection brought together wearability, sustainability, style and functionality all in one. The cycle sunglasses were a hit, too.

Stephanie wins £1000 and an industry placement and her designs were also shown at London Fashion Weekend. I don’t think this will be the last time we see Stephanie on the London fashion catwalks.

Winner Stephanie Kitchen by Milly Jackson for FAD

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday February 25th, 2013 11:50 am

Categories ,2013, ,Anna Kim, ,Awards, ,Aysha Simpson, ,BA, ,catwalk, ,Chelsey Crossland, ,Estela Nevinskaite, ,FAD, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,Hilary Alexander, ,Joseph Horton, ,Kimberley Phillips, ,Laura Chittenden, ,Laura Hickman, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louis Anderson-Bythell, ,Lucinda Roberts, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew O’Brien, ,menswear, ,Milly Jackson, ,Morwenna Darwell, ,Nneka Okorie, ,review, ,Robert Mills, ,Stephanie Kitchen, ,Stephanos Konstantinou, ,students, ,sustainability, ,undergraduate, ,Warren Clarke, ,Womenswear

Amelia’s Magazine | Yeashin: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

South Korean designer Yeashin Kim‘s Woodland collection juxtaposed traditional Korean dress with inspiration from the swinging 60s. The colourful results built on the look she has been honing since completing her studies in fine arts and then attending the London College of Fashion.

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Victoria Wright.

A multitude of textures were thrown together and somehow emerged victorious. Oversized embellished hats, plenty of colourful trims and digitally printed woodgrain based on Korean furniture lent the collection a fairytale feel, with bespoke woolly boots adorned with pompoms adding to the idea that the models could have stepped off the pages of a children’s book (no bad thing in my world).

Yeashin A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Yeashin-by-Sylwia-Szyszka
Yeashin A/W 2013 by Sylwia Szyszka.

Skirts were predominantly short and flared, collars adorned with on trend details, cuffs beautifully buttoned or trimmed in wool. Knitwear came in the form of a dotty cape, bolero and cosy looking chequerboard coat. Yeashin‘s was a delightfully unique collection in this time of monochrome madness, and all the better for it.

ones to watch yeashin AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59188092" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59188092</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 12:53 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,knitwear, ,Laura Hickman, ,London College of Fashion, ,London Fashion Week, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,South Korean, ,Sylwia Szyszka, ,Victoria Wright, ,woodland, ,Yeashin, ,Yeashin Kim

Amelia’s Magazine | Yulia Kondranina: Fashion Scout Ones to Watch A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by youdesignme.

Russian designer and Central Saint Martins graduate Yulia Kondranina was last to show at Ones to Watch, with a small collection of immaculate construction: models stepped out on the catwalk in heavily tasselled dresses, the threads swaying gracefully around legs and arms as they walked. Black threads on black created an elegant gothic feel, whilst white on black was a very on trend nod to the monochrome colour palette which has been omnipresent this season.

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman.

My favourites were undoubtably the three colourful dresses with which Yulia Kondranina ended her show, jewel coloured and swinging flatteringly around hips over the top of tube skirts. I was able to check out the dresses up close at the Fashion Scout exhibition, where I discovered that the delicate threads were given substance with clever internal hoops. I’m not sure how easy they would be to wear, but the collection was beautifully conceived.

ones to watch yulia kondranina AW 2013-photo by amelia gregory

Yulia Kondranina A/W 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 26th, 2013 3:56 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Laura Hickman, ,Ones To Watch, ,review, ,Russian, ,youdesignme

Amelia’s Magazine | Zeynep Tosun: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Preview Interview

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

Last season I was blown away by the discovery of Zeynep Tosun, an ambitious Turkish designer with a penchant for beautiful embellishment. This season Zeynep Tosun takes inspiration from the androgyny and sexual freedom of the 1920s for her Hidden collection. Yesterday I caught up with her in the studio to get a sneak peak of what to expect – beautifully illustrated by Laura Hickman.

Zeynep Tosun S/S 2014 preview by Laura Hickman.

I loved your show last season, how did you construct such elaborate pieces, and who does all the handiwork such as embroidery for you?
I have my own atelier in Istanbul which allows me to experiment with intricate and innovative haute couture techniques. All my embroidery is done in-house.

You have had your own brand since 2008, what has been the journey so far?
It’s been a rollercoaster ride…

What did you learn working with the likes of Alberta Ferretti and Dice Kayak?
Working at Ferretti was my first experience after graduating from Istituto di Maragoni in Milan, so it shaped my character and allowed me to hone my skills to haute couture.

This season you’ve been inspired by the 1920s – how have you translated this time period into a modern collection?
The collection denotes concealed sexuality and merges androgynous shapes with allusive femininity.

What kind of materials have you worked with for the new collection?
Luxe stone-washed silk and silk chiffon, S/S 2014 plays on transparency in a muted palette of white, smoke, navy and candy pink.

How easy was it to set up a flagship store in Istanbul and who are your customers?
My success in Istanbul led to the opening of my flagship store in Akmerkez, and the demand from my private clients mean it has grown every season. My next goal is to open stores in London and New York.

What is it like to work in Turkey in the fashion industry: what are the perks and the challenges?
I am well established as a designer in Turkey so I have much support. London is the platform to build the label internationally.

Zeynep Tosun shows on the catwalk at Freemasons’ Hall with Fashion Scout on Saturday 14th September.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday September 13th, 2013 10:45 am

Categories ,Akmerkez, ,Alberta Ferretti, ,Dice Kayak, ,Fashion Scout, ,Ferretti, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Hidden, ,interview, ,Istanbul, ,Istituto di Maragoni, ,Laura Hickman, ,preview, ,S/S 2014, ,Zeynep Tosun

Amelia’s Magazine | Nova Chiu: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Catwalk Review

Nova Chiu AW2013 by Gaarte
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Gaarte

The ethereal eruption of colour and texture at Nova Chiu was a perfect way to end a tiring first day at London Fashion Week.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Following last season’s showcase of a light and predominantly print-based collection, the house of Nova Chiu brought the label back to it’s roots of heavy embroidery and embellishments for A/W 2013.

Nova Chiu AW 2013 by Amelia Gregory
Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu by Laura Hickman
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

An immensely exciting colour palette was on display – a mix of piercing neons and rich earthy tones, much like ‘The Electronic Super Highway’ by Korean-American artist Nam June Paik, an evident inspiration to the collection. Eclectic blends of material were also used – coloured leather, suede and horsehair blocks with embroideries and beaded trims, giving a three dimensional depth to the clothes.

Nova Chiu AW 2013-photo by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu AW by Amelia Gregory

Nova Chiu by Shy Illustrations
Nova Chiu A/W 2013 by Shy Illustrations

The garments coming down the runway were beautiful and meticulously crafted, but I found myself distracted by how bright the set lights were; unfortunately this made all the models skin look patchy with caked on foundation. Lighting aside, design duo Nova Chiu and Jeff Archer impressed with a dynamic collection that featured designs true to the label’s initial aesthetics and that are wearable enough to sell.

Written by Alex Kessler on Saturday February 23rd, 2013 12:08 am

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,catwalk, ,collection, ,colour, ,fashion, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,garments, ,illustration, ,Jeff Archer, ,Laura Hickman, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Nam June Paik, ,Neon, ,Nova Chiu, ,runway, ,Shy Illustrations, ,Texture, ,The Electronic Super Highway

Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely: London Fashion Week A/W 2013 Presentation Review

Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Ireland’s Orla Kiely has firmly established her eponymous London label over the seasons with 1960s silhouettes, playful prints and rich fabrics. While the look book each season is never going to shock or win any awards for pushing the boundaries of fashion, style fans head to Orla for staple vintage pieces that are playful and pretty. But to judge Orla against the likes of Azzedine Alaïa or Hussein Chalayan would be missing the point. Always a nod to decades past, previous presentations have included film screenings directed by Gia Coppola and Mercedes Helnwein.

All photography by Matt Bramford

This season’s presentation took place in the intriguing Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, a gallery off Denmark Street that often hosts fashion press days; its labyrinth of rooms lend themselves well to presentations of this nature. A long arm of the upper floor had been transformed into a retro working-girl’s space that could have been lifted straight from a scene from Mad Men or working-class hero flick Made in Dagenham.

Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

Numerous models appeared at the entrance to the elongated space wearing this season’s take on Orla’s signature looks, as an unobtrusive soundtrack made up mostly of the clatter of a typewriter played. Beehive barnets piled high atop models’ heads. Orla’s girls were superbly cast, more as actresses than runway models: loading typewriters, filing paperwork, nattering quietly and changing ‘shifts’ regularly to allow other models to enter the showcase.

Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Attention to detail was key, with design perverts like me eyeing up mid-century Scandinavian furniture, Smiths‘ clocks and old graphic signage as much as the outfits themselves.

Statement features this season include high-waisted dresses with girly a-line hems, flocked coats with swirling patterns, pleated and pointed collars, embroidered squirrels and a-line overcoats using Orla Kiely‘s signature shape.

Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Dom&Ink

This kind of thoughtful, preciously executed presentation is the way forward. With never-ending developments in technology and record numbers at catwalk shows, presentations allow you to fully gage the nuances of collections and document them effectively, rather than the scramble to photograph, tweet, Facebook, Vine, MySpace, tumblr, Foursquare and Grindr your way through a catwalk show.

Orla Kiely A/W 2013 by Laura Hickman

Another infinitely wearable collection that will satisfy the label’s fans en masse.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday February 19th, 2013 3:46 pm

Categories ,1950s, ,1960s, ,A/W 2013, ,A/W’13, ,beehive, ,Dom&Ink, ,Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, ,ireland, ,Laura Hickman, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Mad Men, ,Made in Dagenham, ,Matt Bramford, ,Orla Kiely, ,Presentation, ,review, ,Smiths clocks, ,vintage

Amelia’s Magazine | Orla Kiely: London Fashion Week S/S 2014 Presentation Review

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

I forgot to apply for tickets to what was a very oversubscribed show, so it was lucky that I saw any of Orla Kiely‘s presentation this season – right at the end, when I managed to scoot in with some Polish friends I had run into in the queue outside the Elms Lesters Painting Rooms.

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Yelena Bryksenkova.

Once again the label had set up an intricate set, with digital prints of the wide African plains plastered across the walls: for S/S 2014 the Orla girl is on safari, dressed in immaculate style. She wears cute separates with a subtle military influence in the form of jaunty berets, epaulette detailing and handy patch pockets. Camo colours are given a seasonal uplift with injections of powder pink, tomato orange and dusty blue. Subtle prints come in the form of a ditsy pink lion scattered across a sweet summer dress and bolder zebra and giraffe designs. Origami elephants and rhinos adorn shoulder bags and shoppers, whilst tiger faces feature on the cutest of leather purses. The set was more cluttered than the wonderful typing pool of last season, with objects artfully arranged to suggest the theme and the girls clustered around a fireside, relaxing with a book, or painting. For the models it must be a very fun show to take part in. And did I mention the collaboration with Clarks? I’m already lusting after a pair of patent platformed bi-colour Orla Mariannes.

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Orla Kiely S/S 2014 by Laura Hickman.

Orla Kiely SS 2014-photography by Amelia Gregory

Orla Kiely S/S 2014. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday September 18th, 2013 10:16 am

Categories ,Clarks, ,Elms Lesters Painting Rooms, ,Laura Hickman, ,Orla Kiely, ,Orla Mariannes, ,review, ,S/S 2014, ,Safari, ,Yelena Bryksenkova

Amelia’s Magazine | Michelle Urvall Nyrén introduces her Ever Rêve A/W 2013 fashion collection

Ever Reve by Jamie Wignall.

Michelle Urvall Nyrén has a wonderful way with ink, whether it be the washes of colour in her beautiful fashion illustrations (found in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration) or the beautiful bespoke prints on garments in her Ever Rêve fashion range, now stocked in Wolf & Badger. Here she explains the inspiration behind the new collection and the making of her accompanying video.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/59610016" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/59610016</a>

My inspiration for the A/W 2013 Ever Rêve collection was again taken from a story by Swedish writer Hanna Ricksten. When I discussed the character and idea for the collection with my business partner Karol he straight away grabbed his computer and started showing me pictures of old palaces in the city of Lodz, Poland where he is from. We wanted to create an ambience where this young woman partly looked very lonely in a big and empty space and partly looked unbelievably strong and independent. The study of the strong and weak, the dreamy and real is something that I have been analysing in my work for a long time and find very interesting.

Michelle Urval Nyrén

Ever Reve by Laura Hickman.

We eventually decided to take the photos and make the video in The Museum of Cinematography in Lodz, a mid-nineteenth century small palace (residence) in a neo-renaissance style. It has a quite dramatic feeling to it but without being too old-school. Sejin Ahn, the photographer just finished his fifth year at the film school in Lodz and is a very talented film producer. He wanted the photos to look like they were a part of an actual film and have a real and untouched look. The way we both work with characters and sets makes it perfect for collaboration. He has got an amazing attention to details and he doesn’t give up until he has got what he thinks is a perfect picture.

Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Ever Reve by Katy Edelsten.

This collection was modelled by my younger sister Amanda. She has been working professionally for quite a while and she did a very good job in the cold building and snowy garden. We are close like twins and read each others minds so she knew exactly what kind of ambience I was after.

Michelle Urvall Nyrén

Ever Reve by Kim Jenkins.

You can read a full interview with Michelle Urvall Nyrén here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday April 16th, 2013 10:09 pm

Categories ,A/W 2013, ,Amanda, ,Ever Rêve, ,Hanna Ricksten, ,Jamie Wignall, ,Katy Edelsten, ,Kim Jenkins, ,Laura Hickman, ,Lodz, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Museum of Cinematography, ,poland, ,Sejin Ahn, ,Wolf & Badger

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