GQ China – AmeliasMagazine

SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Gareth A Hopkins

After two seasons representing Kay Kwok, GQ China switch their attentions to Xiamen-based designer Shangguan Zhe, better known as SANKUANZ. As is often the case, I knew nothing about this up-and-coming label, but a debut London Collections: Men showcase is probably a good place to start.

SANKUANZ S/S 2015 by Chris Sav

A combination of an exodus to Milan and a debut catwalk show meant that inside Victoria House wasn’t exactly heaving. Staff rushed to seat everybody as near to the front as possible, so I took a spot on the front row despite having a standing ticket.

All photography by Matt Bramford

The first dozen or so looks were strong, but I felt like I’d seen it before. Long white lab coats had been embellished with embroidered black designs, inspired by Russian prison tattoos, ranging from obscure slogans to graphic phalluses. These coats were a fusion between 18th century frock coats and modern day sportswear. Translucent crew neck tops, crisp shirts and mesh hoodies, all in white, were styled underneath, flashing mouthpieces were used and Raf Simons-esque futuristic footwear completed the looks. Some pretty silly brightly-coloured fur shorts were the only break from white.

During a short pause afterwards I thought, ‘yes, I quite like it, some wearable pieces, a bit small as a collection perhaps’ and some other nonsense. Then, almost from nowhere, a model appeared wearing what I can only describe as a giant pair of brightly coloured papier-mâché claw hands. ‘Oh, here we go’ I thought to myself as I frantically tried to take pictures and pick my jaw up from the floor.

Without visual aids I couldn’t tell you a single item of clothing that the models were wearing during this ‘latter stage’ of the show, but I could remember enormous polka-dot lobster claws, Popeye-like forearms and gigantic acid-painted hands making an ‘OK’ sign. It was like a ludicrous tribute to Emoji and I enjoyed every bloody minute.

Looking back on the collection, these gimmicks were paired with some pretty decent garments. Black sweatshirts made more of the Russian criminal emblems and the frock coat in black was less lab-coat and more wearable, but that isn’t what I’ll remember this collection for.

Written by Matt Bramford on Tuesday June 24th, 2014 5:52 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,Chris Sav, ,fashion, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,GQ China, ,LCMSS2015, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,Popeye, ,Raf Simons, ,review, ,SANKUANZ, ,Shangguan Zhe, ,SS15, ,Style, ,Victoria House

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Kay Kwok S/S 2014 by Gabriel Ayala

Kay Kwok was actually my first show of the London Collections: Men S/S 2014 schedule. When I turned up on the Sunday morning, I had a bit of a meltdown outside. I’d returned from holidays and suddenly found myself standing in a standing queue waiting to get in to a venue to watch a designer’s show that I knew nothing about. As street style snappers snapped street style snappers and people behind me in the queue had banal conversations about how they’d selected which shoes to wear, I thought, ‘What the hell am I doing here? I don’t belong here’. It all seemed rather tedious. I yearned to be at home watching the Coronation Street omnibus in my pants, eating Crunchy Nut Cornflakes.

The security guy in the background isn’t part of Kay’s creative direction, he was an actual security guard. Was going to remove him but I like how his poses change from shot to shot…
All photography by Matt Bramford

When I finally got inside, the venue was ludicrously empty. I couldn’t believe it. What was all that al fresco fuss about? I decided to dust myself off and get on with it, and when the lights dimmed and the music started, I realised that this wasn’t such a bad place to be after all. Yeesh, I go on, don’t I? Anyway, let’s talk about Kay Kwok.

Born and raised in Hong Kong, Kay Kwok graduated from the London College of Fashion only last year. He’s already establishing himself on the London fashion menswear scene with a little help from the endorsement of GQ China. This S/S 2014 he brought his blend of ‘cosmic fashion’ to the collections.

Kay Kwok S/S 2014 by Gabriel Ayala

Opening with a wide v-necked tunic top and fitted trousers, this would turn out to be a multifaceted collection. A sea of garments revealing bare chests with this familiar v-neck design followed: beiges and blacks were used heavily for blazers, jackets and further tunics.

Kwok relies heavily on futuristic, architectural forms. T-shirts featured apron-like overlays and wide-leg trousers continued up to the chest with geometric panels. Rigid leather jackets and trousers transformed the shapes of models.

Later came graffiti-like acidic prints, with which, I’m told, Kwok is more closely associated. These were cleverly applied to long coats and accompanying trousers: at first carefully on sleeves, and then with abandon across all garments. Futuristic footwear came courtesy of fellow LCF graduate Youngwon Kim.

As the finale walked past I felt like I’d witnessed two separate collections – both of which were equally exciting. Comparisons have been drawn with J.W. Anderson but I think Kay Kwok‘s aesthetic is a more appealing one and he’s a welcome addition to the London Collections line-up.

Written by Matt Bramford on Monday June 24th, 2013 6:44 pm

Categories ,catwalk, ,Coronation Street, ,fashion, ,Gabriel Ayala, ,GQ China, ,Hong Kong, ,LCM, ,LCMSS14, ,London Collections Men, ,Matt Bramford, ,menswear, ,review, ,S/S 14, ,SS14, ,Victoria House

Amelia’s Magazine | SANKUANZ presented by GQ China: London Collections: Men S/S 2015 Catwalk Review

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Amelia’s Magazine | Kay Kwok: London Collections: Men S/S 2014 Catwalk Review

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