Waldorf Hotel

Amelia’s Magazine | Paul Costelloe AW15: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

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Paul Costelloe AW15 front row
Paul Costelloe put on a stunning show at the suitably glamorous Waldorf Hotel, showcasing a silhouette that seems to grow bolder by the season. I was seated next to the staircase down which the models descended and had a brilliant view of the Front Row, populated by a host of glamorous ladies with shiny hair and legs: Amanda Byram, Edith Bowman, Donna Air, Yasmin Le Bon and so it went on…

Paul Costelloe by Simon McLaren
Paul Costelloe AW15 by Simon McLaren.

Paul Costelloe AW15- photo Amelia Gregory 1
Paul Costelloe AW15-photo Amelia Gregory 2
The Jewels in the Mist collection was inspired by the Italian village of Corinaldo, and featured a beautiful selection of handcrafted jacquards and tweeds in gorgeous saturated colours.
Hair was big and bouffant and heels were high and buckled, simple stylistic additions that let the clothes do the talking. The show opened with a series of stunning short emerald green floral puff dresses with flared sleeves, shoulderless for nighttime, or with jacket tailoring for day. Deeper amethyst tones were worked into tweed swing coats and silvery hues brought a Hollywood glamour to the show, given a Tudor-esque update with huge pointy shoulders.

Paul Costelloe AW15- photo Amelia Gregory 3
Paul Costelloe AW15- photo Amelia Gregory 4
I particularly loved the juicy orange tweed dresses and coats that closed the show. How I would love one of those marvellous coats!

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday February 23rd, 2015 12:24 pm

Categories ,Amanda Byram, ,Corinaldo, ,Donna Air, ,Edith Bowman, ,Jewels in the Mist, ,Paul Costelloe, ,Simon Mclaren, ,Waldorf Hotel, ,yasmin le bon

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA Fashion Show 2014, Menswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

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Wen Tan A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns

Wen Tan A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Against the backdrop of a kaleidoscopic digital projection, the London College of Fashion MA designers sent their designs down the catwalk. As ever there was a fantastic array of talent on show. Here’s a run down of the menswear.

Daniel Yuste AW 2014

Daniel Yuste AW 2014

Spanish designer Daniel Yuste focused on a futuristic sportive silhouette, using neoprene to shape beetle inspired jackets in bold cobalt blue, navy and monochrome stripes.

Wen Tan AW 2014

Wen Tan AW 2014

Wen Tan AW 2014

Wen Tan AW 2014-white suit

Wen Tan used delicate drawings made from the bones of extinct animals as the basis for his drop shouldered coats in muted pastel colours, accessorised with large top hats and bowlers chopped in two.

Artistides Vanis by Rebecca May Illustration

Artistides Vanis by Rebecca May Illustration.

Aristides Vanis AW 2014-LCF MA

Aristides Vanis AW 2014-LCF MA donkey

Aristides Vanis AW 2014

Aristides Vanis AW 2014

Greek designer Aristides Vanis produced the most arresting collection, featuring an outsize stuffed donkey as accessory and plenty of 3D embellishments, all inspired by his childhood and in particular the food and animals that were such a big part of his growing up. His background in costume is evident in these fun garments.

Xiaomeng Yang by Ruth Joyce

Xiaomeng Yang by Ruth Joyce.

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang AW 2014

Xiaomeng Yang dressed his men in brightly coloured co-ordinated suits in shades of bright blue, canary yellow, fuchsia pink, bright green, searing red and blazing orange, with the corresponding shades splattered across the models’ faces. Despite the energetic choice of colour these were beautiful and wearable garments, featuring intricate draping inspired by folds of skin.

All photography by Amelia Gregory. Don’t forget to check out my coverage of the womenswear graduates here.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 18th, 2014 6:28 pm

Categories ,2014, ,Aristides Vanis, ,Claire Kearns, ,Daniel Yuste, ,London College of Fashion, ,ma, ,menswear, ,Rebecca May Illustration, ,review, ,Ruth Joyce, ,Waldorf Hotel, ,Wen Tan, ,Xiaomeng Yang

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Amelia’s Magazine | London College of Fashion MA Fashion Show 2014, Womenswear: London Fashion Week Catwalk Review

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Mariana Jungmann by Emma Farrarons

Mariana Jungmann by Emma Farrarons.

The London College of Fashion MA show was held in a huge ballroom at the back of the Waldorf Hotel, a fitting location for this highly regarded event. I was late arriving, and managed to squeeze myself in next to the catwalk entrance – not the best place for great photos, but I did my best. Here’s a run down of the hottest new fashion design talent. First up, womenswear.

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014-heart ruffle

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014-purple top

Barbara Kolasinski AW 2014

The show opened with the colourful designs of Barbra Kolasinski, who hand dyes her own textiles in the bath tub. Pale pink and lilac tufts of goats hair were fashioned into huge coats, muffs and handbags, worn with mohair capes and chenille striped lamp skirts. Outsized ruffled tartan heart shirts gave an up-to-date nod to Barbra’s Scottish heritage.

Eun Kyeng Seo AW 2014

Eun Kyeng Seo AW 2014

Eun Kyeng Seo AW 2014

Grunge was an obvious influence in a distressed and heavily layered collection from Eun Kyeng Seo, featuring washed denim, rough exposed seams and plaid.

Mariana Jungmann AW 2014-lace dress

Mariana Jungmann AW 2014

Mariana Jungmann AW 2014-black dress

Brazilian designer Mariana Jungmann showcased her innovative lace making techniques in provocative dresses and a leather laser cut two piece.

Min Kim A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns

Min Kim A/W 2014 by Claire Kearns.

Min Kim AW 2014-leopard

Min Kim AW 2014

Min Kim AW 2014-silver skirt

Min Kim AW 2014-circle dress

Min Kim showcased some innovative circular pattern cutting in a highly wearable collection constructed out of a tantalising combination of metallic leather, mohair and leopard camo print. Think on-trend rounded shoulders, semi circular hemlines and a dramatic dress with a gigantic round wool skirt.

Youjia Jin AW 2014

Youjia Jin created an androgynous silhouette in shades of grey and white, with pleats and ruffles adding an extra dimension to the soft tailoring.

Yuanxi Sun AW 2014

Yuanxi Sun AW 2014

Yuanxi Sun AW 2014

Yuanxi Sun focused on a sporty look inspired by bedtime, with brilliant white elastic cuffed shirts and puffy jackets covered in a bold squared pattern reminiscent of graph paper, all accessorised with laid back baseball caps.

Read my review of the menswear graduates here. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Tuesday February 18th, 2014 5:46 pm

Categories ,2014, ,Barbra Kolasinski, ,Claire Kearns, ,Emma Farrarons, ,Eun Kyeng Seo, ,London College of Fashion, ,Mariana Jungmann, ,Min Kim, ,Report, ,review, ,Waldorf Hotel, ,Womenswear, ,Youjia Jin, ,Yuanxi Sun

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