Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Menswear Catwalk Review: Asger Juel Larsen Vs t.lipop

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Faye West

t.lipop S/S 2012 by Faye West

Asger Juel Larsen versus t.lipop – not the first time to appear together – showed at Vauxhall Fashion Scout on the last day of London Fashion Week and gave me my most interesting queueing experience during this season. Upon arriving there was a multitude of cool young things waiting to go in – to my delight a lot of them were boys wearing big chunky jewellery! – while a little later the marvellously coiffured Prince Cassius joined the queue behind me, nurse quickly to be noticed and taken inside by the Blow PR girls. While I felt a little saddened that my co-queueing with Prince Cassius was so brief, approved I overheard a girl saying ‘oh, there is Kate Moss!’, which quickly distracted me from my loss. Immediately the whole queue, as if choreographed, leaned to the right to take a peak and of course a few cameras pointed towards her and husband Jamie Hince.

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Gemma Sheldrake
Asger Juel Larsen SS12 by Gemma Sheldrake

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

After being seated in the packed space inside, Asger Juel Larsen‘s models started coming out fast and aggressively. I really enjoyed elements such as the slightly twisted animal prints or the spiked prosthetic beards – reminding me of Bearded Dragons under threat – both of which impressively spelt out ‘wildness’. One of those spiked beards worn by a girl as well as a glorious chain mail army style headpiece with bull horns added the notion of the ‘beast’ to the collection. I am all for a little bit of bearded ladies and mythological creatures such as the Minotaur!

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Gareth A Hopkins
Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs
Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Maria Papadimitriou aka Slowly The Eggs

I thought the themes of wilderness, fighting and survival suggested by the symbolism described above were brilliantly complimented by a number of woolly hats with different metal letters stitched onto them spelling out the phrase ‘we live’. Further allusions to survival through sexual expression were added by a round stitched logo at the back of a jacket reading ‘happiness is a warm pussy’ and the brothel creepers some models wore – shoes originally worn by ex-soldiers visiting nightspots in London.

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Claire Kearns

Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Claire Kearns

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by The Pern

Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by The Pern

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Jess Sharville

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Jess Sharville

Asger Juel Larsen S/S 2012 by Jessica Sharville

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

Asger Juel Larsen LFW SS12 menswear portrait by Maria Papadimitriou

The contrast between Asger Juel Larsen and the designer that followed, t.lipop, was seemingly like war and peace. t.lipop favoured a palette of pale blues, camel, white and stone, with a splash of bright orange. It was an array of generally relaxed and flowing pieces that calmed us a little after what came earlier. We saw tailored smart jackets and trousers, minimal tops and long untucked shirts that were far less aggressive, even with feminine touches such as fringed adornments and embroidery.

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Celine Eliott
t.lipop S/S 2012 by Celine Eliott

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Vasare Nar
t.lipop S/S 2012 by Vasare Nar

Looking closer, however, I thought there were similarities in the underlying themes of the two collections. T.lipop’s gentlemanly clothes reminded me of movies starring wealthy imperialists in warm exotic countries – suggesting aggression and war – while the long hair and full beards on the models evoked images of castaways striving for survival. Some of the monochrome outfits with their collarless round necklines looked similar to uniforms seen in hospitals’ operating theatres or emergency units, whilst wide brimmed hats alluded perhaps to field workers, both adding to the – admittedly subtle this time – undertones of struggle and self-preservation.

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Celine Elliott
t.lipop S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop LFW SS12 menswear by Matt Bramford

t.lipop portrait LFW SS12 menswear by Maria Papadimitriou

With so many interesting references and inspirations in both collections, when Prince Cassius tweeted me to say he really enjoyed the show I could only tweet back in agreement!

All photography by Matt Bramford.
Photo portraits of designers by Maria Papadimitriou.

Categories ,Aggressive, ,Army, ,Asger Juel Larsen, ,Bearded Dragons, ,Bearded Ladies, ,Blow PR, ,Brothel Creepers, ,Castaways, ,Celine Elliott, ,Chain Mail, ,Claire Kearns, ,designer, ,embroidery, ,fashion, ,Faye West, ,Fighting, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Fringing, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Sheldrake, ,hats, ,Headpiece, ,Jackets, ,Jamie Hince, ,Jessica Sharville, ,jewellery, ,Kate Moss, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,Long hair, ,Maria Papadimitriou, ,menswear, ,minimalist, ,Minotaur, ,Mythological Creatures, ,Prince Cassius, ,Prosthetic Beards, ,Slowly the Eggs, ,Suits, ,Survivalist, ,t.lipop, ,tailored, ,The Pern, ,Tweeting, ,Uniforms, ,Vasare Nar, ,Vauxhall Fashion Scout, ,Wilderness

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | American Pioneers: Ways of Living – a journey around east coast eco-communities

American Pioneers-Jess n Harper

We are circling the Blue Ridge Mountains in a car packed with sleeping bags, tent, dresses, and emergency granola bars. My friend Harper Cowan and I have a month on the road, an itinerary of intentional communities to visit, and a modest bag of camera equipment. Filming a documentary about communes on the east coast of America has been a fantasy of ours for years, and now here we are, sleeping in the wilderness, constantly losing our tripod, and setting our dream into motion.

American Pioneers-Jess at Mountain Gardens
Jessica at Mountain Gardens

At each stop off we are asked for our reasons behind making the film. A large part is curiosity – do people still live in communes? Would I like it? What do they do? Are they making a difference? Mainly though, we’ve been growing restless with our lifestyle. We both want to live in the contemporary world, but it isn’t contemporary anymore to be abusing the planet (and one another) in the way we do. There must be alternatives to all the loneliness and isolation. The unfulfilling jobs, the spending, and the wastefulness we are a part of. We have been searching for a deeper connection to ourselves, to others, and to the environment, with the desire to share what we’re finding, and create the changes we so desperately need.

American Pioneers-harper at LEF
Harper at LEF.

We begin our journey heading south down the highway from New York. Seven hours later, scribbling last minute questions into a notebook that we won’t look at again, we turn down a concealed backroad, somewhere in Virginia. While waiting for Shaun, the founder of Living Energy Farm, to come and meet us, we take a photo on the rock to cement the start of our adventure. A bearded stranger lopes over the hilltop, and leads us on a hike through the undergrowth, away from the last traces of small town civilisation. He warns of copperhead snakes and black widow spiders, and tells us to check for ticks every night before bed.

American Pioneers-Beautiful People
At the central camp the barren land slopes away into tangles of desert weeds and parched forest. A group of six-to-eight core members live here in tents, with a couple of barefoot blonde children and a baby goat. Things are just beginning – there is so much to be decided and built still, and the conditions are hardcore. This tiny community is less than three years old, and the team is disciplined and determined to keep their modest dream alive.

American Pioneers-Track to Earth Haven
Track to Earth Haven.

We are shown around and told to put our camera away. This reluctance pops up sometimes at other communities, too. We meet one man with a mission to erase every photo, clip, and shred of evidence of himself from the internet. His life story is incredible, but he has strongly intended to escape that world, and we know we need to be sensitive.

American Pioneers-Snaggy Mountain Graffiti
Our days at LEF are hot and dusty. I watch a woman skin a rabbit and turn the carcass inside-out over a stick, attempting to make a case for her knife. The children lay out a tiny tea set on the earth, and traumatise the goat. A Texan native teaches us to stucco the walls of a newly-erected straw-bale kitchen. We stir up sloppy mixtures of clay, lime, and rainwater in a wheelbarrow and slap it onto the rough walls. It ends up down our clothes and in our mouths, but it’s therapeutic and inspiring. Alexis, a core member of LEF and environmental-ambassador, talks us through the building process. His passion shines as he opens up about eco-building, cooperative usage, and shared resources. “Why cook seven meals in seven separate kitchens, when cooking together uses a fraction of the electricity? Why heat our individual boxes, when communing in one space conserves so much?

American Pioneers-parabolic cooker
Parabolic cooker.

In the evenings we share skip-dived meals with weather-worn strangers, often in silence. I watch a man hang a saucepan of cold stew from a large silver disc, (a parabolic cooker) and point it at the sun. He demonstrates raw solar power by holding a twig in front of the disc. It sets on fire in seconds.

American Pioneers-Music at Snaggy Mountain
Music at Snaggy Mountain.

Our evenings are often cut short without artificial light. These pioneers use almost no fossil fuels (with an aim to use zero once the building has concluded), and so when the sun goes down, so do we. On our last evening, we sit outside our $30 tent and I play guitar with a young man who is completely jaded with the world. He has been beaten around by city life more than most, and is making a new start here, unlike anything he’s used to.

American Pioneers-Medicine Wheel Kitchen at Earth Haven
Medicine Wheel Kitchen at Earth Haven.

After Living Energy, we stay at Acorn, Earth Haven, Twin Oaks. We fall behind schedule. The stories unfolding – and individuals encountered – at each place are worthy of their own articles. We find it harder and harder to leave each time. Acorn, in Louisa County, Virginia, is brimming with youthful vibrance. One girl plays accordion and sings for us; another strums a harp. It’s a grounding feeling, to be so welcomed. Earth Haven is the same. So easy to live freely there, amongst the cabins and earth-ships. I make plans to return.

American Pioneers-Cabin at Earth Haven
Cabin at Earth Haven.

At Twin Oaks, we are treated to a tour from Valerie. It’s different from LEF – all the communities vary in character and ideals far more than I had assumed. With over one hundred members, it’s one of the oldest and largest in America. It feels like a beautiful college campus for all ages. Life is organised like clockwork.There are charts for everything, from car sharing to money lending. There’s a women’s lodge, annual conferences, expansive vegetable gardens, and a field of solar panels. Plants spill from pots in the central quad. Hammocks are strung up on porches – Twin Oaks run a successful hammock weaving enterprise, as well as a tofu business, both of which support their income-sharing lifestyle. Much like most other communities, decisions are made at General Consensus meetings. Everyone’s opinion counts, which means that if one person disagrees, the motion is hard to pass. (And the motion could be as little as digging a pond, or installing a pingpong table.)

American Pioneers-Earth Haven
We drive further south. Couchsurf in Asheville, North Carolina, before finding the nearby Snaggy Mountain. It’s here that we realise a month isn’t going to be adequate time to film this documentary. We still have so many places we are scheduled to visit, and our road trip is running out. Each stop-off has become another beautiful encompassing world, another blessing teaching us so much about living. We don’t seem to be able to leave Snaggy at all – it feels like perhaps we’re stuck here for good. I have released fears of poisonous snakes, burrowing ticks, and rugged outdoor living. I have relaxed in a way I find impossible in my normal routine.

American Pioneers-Cabin at Snaggy Mountain
Cabin at Snaggy Mountain.

So here I am. Wrapped in tick-ridden blankets under a North Carolina sky, watching shooting stars burn streaks across the heavens. Next to me lie my fellow east coast wanderer, Harper, and Jared, the peaceful founder of this community. His grandfather’s land, once home to dairy farming, is now a WWOOFERs paradise of hand built cabins, a Kesey-inspired bus, yoga platform, vegetable beds, herb gardens, and a pet pig. The core members of Snaggy are joined every summer by an influx of volunteers and musicians, keen to learn about foraging and planting seeds, play banjo in the woods, and paint murals on bedroom walls. I scour bookshelves brimming with permaculture, herbal remedies, astrology, Castaneda, mushrooms, modern pagans, and the cosmos. The season is just hotting up when we arrive, and already our nights are filled with dancing, communal homegrown meals, and festivals.

American Pioneers-Acorn Toothbrushes
Acorn Toothbrushes.

Tonight is quieter though, and back on our wooden bed, under the stars, the three of us chant Walt Whitman‘s Song of the Open Road. We fall asleep to the sound of coyote packs wailing on Mount Silo. Drizzle mists our faces. I feel more free, open, and inspired than I have felt in years. We’ve spent the day interviewing members of the farm. Everyone we have met over the last month thinks about life. There’s so much time to, with the lack of TVs and outside distractions. So much time to get to know each other. It’s deeply inspiring to speak with so many who consider their actions, and seek meaning away from materialism.

American Pioneers-Snaggy Mountain
Snaggy Mountain.

Lots of these people have given up parts of themselves that weren’t necessarily easy to leave behind. The sacrifice is present in some people’s lives, but mostly they seem happier, and acutely aware that the prize is the earth. It’s not all perfect. One man tells us he thought joining a community would put an end to his loneliness, but he’s not sure it has. He’s thinking of moving on. It’s been more beautiful, more adventurous, and wilder than I could have imagined. Our hips ache from sleeping on bare earth. I’ve made friends I will know forever. And the film-making has been a wonderful journey of its own. We are hooked – in September I will cross the Atlantic again to continue filming and discovering radical ways of living. The documentary will be edited over winter 2014, so please sign up here if you would like a copy.

Harper: “I’m so excited and proud to share with people where Jess and I have just come from, what we’ve seen – It’s SO good out there, there are so many good people, doing such good things. The world is big and beautiful and I have hope. People are amazing.

You can support Jess and Harper make their film by visiting www.animarising.squarespace.com (Soon to change to animarising.net)

Categories ,Acorn, ,America, ,Anima Rising, ,Asheville, ,Blue Ridge Mountains, ,Communes, ,Communities, ,Earth Haven, ,Ecocommunity, ,film, ,General Consensus, ,Harper, ,Harper Cowan, ,Jessica Watkins, ,LEF, ,Living Energy Farm, ,Mount Silo, ,North Carolina, ,Roadtrip, ,Self Sustainable, ,Shaun, ,Snaggy Mountain, ,Song of the Open Road, ,Straw bale, ,Twin Oaks, ,Ways of Living, ,Wilderness

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Forests Rocks Torrents at The National Gallery: Review

Chalets at Rigi 1861 Alexandre-Calame
Chalets at Rigi 1861 by Alexandre Calame. Oil on Canvas. All photos courtesy of the owner, Asbjørn Lunde.

Forests Rocks Torrents is a rare opportunity to see a collection of magnificent paintings by some grand names of European landscape art – part of the privately held Lunde Collection. This is the first time I’ve been invited to an exhibition preview at the National Gallery, but what the heck, I liked the look of the image on the invitation so I thought I’d trot along and find out if the exhibition lived up to first impressions. Forests Rocks Torrents has been themed around the concept of similarities between paintings by Swiss and Norwegians. Well, I say, of course they are similar! They feature mountains and wilderness, and were all painted over a similar period during the 1800s. But that’s not to detract from my enjoyment, for this is a fine collection of realist landscape art. We were by turns guided through the paintings by curators Christopher Riopelle and Sarah Herring.

Scene from the Era of Norwegian Sagas 1850 Knud-Andreassen-Baade
Scene from the Era of Norwegian Sagas 1850 by Knud Andreassen Baade. Oil on Canvas.

The first room hosts the epic grandeur of Knud Andreassen Baade, who places a small figure with arm held defiantly aloft on a cliff top at sunset. It’s a mythical Wagnerian vision of Norway that conjures up the warriors of a bygone era. Many of these artists were intrigued by the past, and menhirs – the remnants of a Viking culture that live on in the pastoral landscapes where peasants eked out a living at the foot of mountains – feature prominently in the art of Johan Christian Dahl. The beauty of the rural life (hardship unseen) is idolised in the Hobbit-esque homes depicted in Chalets at Rigi by Calame (at top), the low slung dwellings seeming to mould into the rolling hills as if in harmony with nature.

Fjord landscape with menhir, 1837 Johan Christian Dahl
Fjord landscape with menhir, 1837 by Johan Christian Dahl. Oil on Canvas.

Robert Zünd was painting Switzerland at a time that tourism was yet to become a mainstay of the Swiss economy – as such the mountainscapes he viewed were something that people knew little about. Zünd used small amounts of red to draw attention to the tiny figures who would otherwise be overwhelmed by the sheer scale of the surrounding countryside.

The River Lutschine near Lauterbrunnen Calame
The River Lutschine near Lauterbrunnen by Alexandre Calame. Oil on Canvas.

Alexandre Calame was a grand master of European landscape painting who had a most unfortunate childhood. He was born with a limp and then lost the sight in one eye. When his father, a marble carver, died early, he was forced to take a job in a bank to help the family finances. Luckily good fortune prevailed and a banker discovered his artwork. He is now considered one of the greatest artists of the European landscape genre from that period. During his life he was commissioned by a huge European clientele who wanted a slice of Alpine wilderness in their luxurious mansions. They specifically asked for depictions of torrential rivers and wild weather, as typified in Mountain Torrent before the Storm (The Aare River, Haslital) Alexandre Calame was intensely religious and believed in the innate divinity of nature.

The Lower Falls of the Labrofoss 1827 Johan Christian Dahl
The Lower Falls of the Labrofoss 1827 by Johan Christian Dahl. Oil on Canvas.

I was intrigued to note that these paintings all have very specific geographic labelling, a highly desirable feature for prospective buyers which made the actual locations reachable. It immediately made me wonder whether these paintings have been used by climate change scientists to track weather changes: after all, these paintings may be all we have as evidence of the breadth of glaciers two hundred years ago. The curators seemed bemused by my questions but I’m certain I’m onto something.

At Handeck about 1860 Alexandre Calamea
At Handeck about 1860 by Alexandre Calame. Oil on Canvas.

Trees, as might be imagined, feature strongly in these paintings. The exhibition notes attribute anthropomorphic attributes to these majestic sentinels, but I am sure it’s far simpler than that – they were magnificent specimens of nature that we are asked to look on in awe. Some of Calame’s close up paintings of rock formations are rendered in a peculiarly modern graphic detail that belies their age. Johan Christian Dahl too, was obsessed with intriguing rock formations – in his Study of a Rock from Nystuen on Filefjell the rock is everything, and he would go on to include studies like this in larger pieces.

Tree Study , by a Stream, Granvin 11 July 1839 Thomas Fearnley
Tree Study, by a Stream, Granvin 11 July 1839 Thomas Fearnley. Oil on panel.

Thomas Fearnley was a prodigy of Dahl who travelled widely. He was also obsessed with rocks. In Arco Naturale, Capri, the languorously fluid tower takes centre stage. Some of his work in the exhibition was created in the marble mining regions of Italy, where he found the weather much more favourable. Widely acknowledged as a master during his day he sadly died before his 40th birthday.

Seascape about 1860 Peder Balke
Seascape about 1860 Peder Balke.

Peder Balke travelled to the most remote stretches of Norway that he could find to locate vistas that were little known to public gaze. The Mountain Range ‘Trolltindene‘ reveals a mountainscape of bleak extremes – the jutting peaks towering over a roiling bay. Balke has an interesting story because he’s only of late become something of a cult figure – after his early artistic career failed to pay a wage he became a politician and then a real estate developer. Even in those days this was a far better and more reliable way to make a living! But he carried on painting in private and now his small experimental studies attract a large following.

This is a wonderful little exhibition that’s well worth a visit if you are in town with a spare half hour. Forests Rocks Torrents is quick to get around and offers a beautiful view of the European landscape when it was still pretty much an untamed wilderness, long before the days of ski resorts and Alpine hiking. Then, as now, it was something to look upon in admiration and awe, whatever your beliefs. Full information in my listings.

Categories ,Alexandre Calame, ,Alpine, ,Alps, ,Arco Naturale, ,Asbjørn Lunde, ,At Handeck, ,Capri, ,Chalets at Rigi, ,Christopher Riopelle, ,European Landscape Art, ,exhibition, ,Forests Rocks Torrents, ,Haslital), ,Hobbit, ,Johan Christian Dahl, ,Knud Andreassen Baade, ,Menhir, ,Mountain Torrent before the Storm (The Aare River, ,Mountains, ,Mountainscapes, ,Norway, ,Peasants, ,Peder Balke, ,review, ,Robert Zund, ,Sarah Herring, ,Study of a Rock from Nystuen on Filefjell, ,Sunley Room, ,Switzerland, ,The Lower Falls of the Labrofoss 1827, ,The Lunde Collection, ,The Mountain Range ‘Trolltindene’, ,The National Gallery, ,Thomas Fearnley, ,Viking, ,Wagnerian, ,Wilderness

Similar Posts: