Amelia’s Magazine | Martina Spetlova: New S/S 2012 Season Interview

Martina Spetlova By Shauna Tranter
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Shauna Tranter.

Eco designer Martina Spetlova first caught my eye when I was putting together Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration last year. She has an inimitable ability to combine materials and colours which has made her past two collections every bit as eye catching as that first one I saw. Time for a catch up me thinks.

Stacie Swift - Martina Spetlova AW11
Martina Spetlova A/W 2011 by Stacie Swift.

For A/W 2011 you shot a more spooky video with a tribal beat, cheap can you speak a bit more about the inspiration for this?
I wanted to work with a dancer and I used a very inspiring film by Maya Deren called A Study In Choreography For Camera as reference. Margarita who performs in my film was loosely choreorgaphed for the piece and then we filmed it over a stretch of a few hours. The music came later and was sourced by Paddy Austin, price who got it from an old Italian opera by Roberto De Simone.


Your use of sustainable leather and zips for A/W 2011 is amazing, how did you mock up trial samples of this range?
I always spend some time researching in the library at the start of a season, but my ideas tend to evolve by experimenting in the studio. I am always testing and mixing the combinations of textures and colours at my studio… playing with various leathers and using zips as connectors and features. 

Martina Spetlova by Celine Elliott
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott.

Your use of colour is very intriguing – where do you get the ideas for your mismatches? Is there something in particular that you look at for inspiration each season, or is your colour choice in your DNA?
In order to be sustainable I work with end of line fabrics and yarns which can be quite limiting in terms of colour. I always have an idea of the main colours I would like to use when I start working on a new collection, but I have to also see what is available and what happy accidents I discover along the way. But I suppose you could say that colour is in my DNA, as I seem to know that the choices and combinations I use are right.


The video for your new S/S 2012 collection is beautiful – what gave you the idea to work with split imagery and different focal lengths?
For my presentation I took the elements that helped create the S/S 2012 collection and separated them out in petri dishes on a large light box. I wanted to highlight the way I experiment when I work, by creating a formula for various processes my designs go through. The film had to sit next to this piece in Somerset House so thats how we thought of using mirrors and a magnifying glass to distort and split images. The film is a collaboration with Ruta Balseviciute and Till Janz, and we were inspired by the short films of Erwin Blumenfeld of course.

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-2
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-3
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-3
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-3
Chemical theory is still a dominant theme, how is this applied to the making of your garments for S/S 2012?
My formula I mentioned above takes the ingredients I use – the end of line fabrics and yarns, ethically sourced leathers, textures and colours of elements such as the zips and knit – and combines them with my own experimentation processes to create the finished piece. I studied a chemistry degree in Prague before I went to Central Saint Martins to study fashion and I found some similarities between the two disciplines. The way I experiment with colours and textures in the design process at my studio echos the blending and mixing of chemicals in order to achieve a prescribed reaction within the laboratory. 

Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Erin Sleeper
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Erin Sleeper
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Erin Sleeper.

You first came to my attention as an eco designer – how has a desire to be ethical continued to influence your work, and how do you make sure that all fabrics are sustainably sourced?
I work with end of line fabrics and yarns from European mills which the industry sees as waste material, but which I am able to use for my limited edition collections. I also work with leather companies which have sustainable policies. 

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-6
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-7
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-8
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-9
You’ve recently been doing some teaching – how does this compliment and fit in with your design work?
I have just started teaching fashion on Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw which is a brand new course and full of energy. It gives me an opportunity to step away from my own work, whilst helping the students develop their own ideas in the same way I was encouraged to at Central Saint Martins.

Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Stacie Swift
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Stacie Swift.

Where can people buy a piece of Martina Spetlova?
Selected pieces from my A/W 2011 and S/S 2012 collection will be soon available at LN-CC. I am also selling my new collection with Osmoda, which is new online shop.

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-10
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-11
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-12
Any future plans or collaborations that you can tell us about?
I am hoping to carry on collaborating with Atlantic Leather, which I have been working with for a couple of seasons now. I am also looking into a shoe collaboration for the new season, to be shown next February. 

Wonderful stuff! You can see more of Martina Spetlova in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-13
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-14
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-15
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012
S/S 2011 collection

Categories ,A Study In Choreography For Camera, ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Atlantic Leather, ,Celine Elliott, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chemistry, ,ecodesign, ,Erin Sleeper, ,Erwin Blumenfeld, ,ethical, ,film, ,LN-CC, ,ma, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Maya Deren, ,Osmoda, ,Paddy Austin, ,poland, ,Prague, ,Roberto De Simone, ,Ruta Balseviciute, ,S/S 2012, ,Shauna Tranter, ,Somerset House, ,Stacie Swift, ,Till Janz, ,Warsaw, ,Zips

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Martina Spetlova: New S/S 2012 Season Interview

Martina Spetlova By Shauna Tranter
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Shauna Tranter.

Eco designer Martina Spetlova first caught my eye when I was putting together Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration last year. She has an inimitable ability to combine materials and colours which has made her past two collections every bit as eye catching as that first one I saw. Time for a catch up me thinks.

Stacie Swift - Martina Spetlova AW11
Martina Spetlova A/W 2011 by Stacie Swift.

For A/W 2011 you shot a more spooky video with a tribal beat, cheap can you speak a bit more about the inspiration for this?
I wanted to work with a dancer and I used a very inspiring film by Maya Deren called A Study In Choreography For Camera as reference. Margarita who performs in my film was loosely choreorgaphed for the piece and then we filmed it over a stretch of a few hours. The music came later and was sourced by Paddy Austin, price who got it from an old Italian opera by Roberto De Simone.


Your use of sustainable leather and zips for A/W 2011 is amazing, how did you mock up trial samples of this range?
I always spend some time researching in the library at the start of a season, but my ideas tend to evolve by experimenting in the studio. I am always testing and mixing the combinations of textures and colours at my studio… playing with various leathers and using zips as connectors and features. 

Martina Spetlova by Celine Elliott
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Celine Elliott.

Your use of colour is very intriguing – where do you get the ideas for your mismatches? Is there something in particular that you look at for inspiration each season, or is your colour choice in your DNA?
In order to be sustainable I work with end of line fabrics and yarns which can be quite limiting in terms of colour. I always have an idea of the main colours I would like to use when I start working on a new collection, but I have to also see what is available and what happy accidents I discover along the way. But I suppose you could say that colour is in my DNA, as I seem to know that the choices and combinations I use are right.


The video for your new S/S 2012 collection is beautiful – what gave you the idea to work with split imagery and different focal lengths?
For my presentation I took the elements that helped create the S/S 2012 collection and separated them out in petri dishes on a large light box. I wanted to highlight the way I experiment when I work, by creating a formula for various processes my designs go through. The film had to sit next to this piece in Somerset House so thats how we thought of using mirrors and a magnifying glass to distort and split images. The film is a collaboration with Ruta Balseviciute and Till Janz, and we were inspired by the short films of Erwin Blumenfeld of course.

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-2
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-3
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-3
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-3
Chemical theory is still a dominant theme, how is this applied to the making of your garments for S/S 2012?
My formula I mentioned above takes the ingredients I use – the end of line fabrics and yarns, ethically sourced leathers, textures and colours of elements such as the zips and knit – and combines them with my own experimentation processes to create the finished piece. I studied a chemistry degree in Prague before I went to Central Saint Martins to study fashion and I found some similarities between the two disciplines. The way I experiment with colours and textures in the design process at my studio echos the blending and mixing of chemicals in order to achieve a prescribed reaction within the laboratory. 

Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Erin Sleeper
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Erin Sleeper
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Erin Sleeper.

You first came to my attention as an eco designer – how has a desire to be ethical continued to influence your work, and how do you make sure that all fabrics are sustainably sourced?
I work with end of line fabrics and yarns from European mills which the industry sees as waste material, but which I am able to use for my limited edition collections. I also work with leather companies which have sustainable policies. 

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-6
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-7
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-8
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-9
You’ve recently been doing some teaching – how does this compliment and fit in with your design work?
I have just started teaching fashion on Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw which is a brand new course and full of energy. It gives me an opportunity to step away from my own work, whilst helping the students develop their own ideas in the same way I was encouraged to at Central Saint Martins.

Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Stacie Swift
Martina Spetlova S/S 2012 by Stacie Swift.

Where can people buy a piece of Martina Spetlova?
Selected pieces from my A/W 2011 and S/S 2012 collection will be soon available at LN-CC. I am also selling my new collection with Osmoda, which is new online shop.

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-10
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-11
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-12
Any future plans or collaborations that you can tell us about?
I am hoping to carry on collaborating with Atlantic Leather, which I have been working with for a couple of seasons now. I am also looking into a shoe collaboration for the new season, to be shown next February. 

Wonderful stuff! You can see more of Martina Spetlova in Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration.

Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-13
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-14
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012-15
Martina-Spetlova-SS-2012
S/S 2011 collection

Categories ,A Study In Choreography For Camera, ,A/W 2011, ,Academy of Fine Arts, ,ACOFI, ,Amelia’s Compendium of Fashion Illustration, ,Atlantic Leather, ,Celine Elliott, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Chemistry, ,ecodesign, ,Erin Sleeper, ,Erwin Blumenfeld, ,ethical, ,film, ,LN-CC, ,ma, ,Martina Spetlova, ,Maya Deren, ,Osmoda, ,Paddy Austin, ,poland, ,Prague, ,Roberto De Simone, ,Ruta Balseviciute, ,S/S 2012, ,Shauna Tranter, ,Somerset House, ,Stacie Swift, ,Till Janz, ,Warsaw, ,Zips

Similar Posts:






Amelia’s Magazine | Illustrator Interview: Anka Dabrowska

cheap medications photo by Julian Abrams” width=”480″ height=”640″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-18752″ />
Conformist

Blythe house, prescription once a colossal bustling post office savings bank full of clerks’ activity now stands (almost) empty as a memorial to times past. Currently the home of not only the Victoria and Albert Archives but the British and Science Museum it double doors remain closed even to those who work in the museums. It takes a special request to get inside these vaults.

Luckily for a limited time (these doors swing back tight at the end of June) the V&A section has had its doors pushed slightly ajar by fashion curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Philips. Together they have curated a delicate show examining ideas and understandings of dress alongside concepts of preservation in the midst of a vast archive that documents humanity’s progression.


Essential

Titled The Concise Dictionary of A Dress, the exhibition consists of 11 exhibits nestling amongst the archives, taking up position in the nooks and crannies of the ghostly building. The audience is shepherded silently though the sections of the building we were allowed to see, at times overwhelmed by the space and the delicate nature of the objects it protects. Eyes were all too often caught by the wondrous treasures awaiting selection by the V&A curators, their position elevated from number x of an extensive hoard into object A indicative of the human condition.

11 exhibits accompanied by 11 pieces of card form a mini-lexicon of dress (a concise representation of ideas of what it is to ‘dress’). Is it as comfortable suggests … or do you find yourself agreeing with Loose? Or do the words fall flat?

Armoured
Comfortable
Conformist
Creased
Essential
Fashionable
Loose
Measured
Plain
Pretentious
Tight

Words and their meanings can provide a point of conflict: at times the words on the card and the image of dress produced a harmonious moment of why people chose particular items of dress. In this moment the dictionary of a dress becomes clear as the exhibition mirrors the dictionary’s almost circular nature of providing two meanings for one word.

The curators have invited the audience into a hidden world; the vast depths of the museum. The audiences’ eye drawn to objects not in the exhibition but whose presence demands attention: Why is it there? Why did they choose this room or that cupboard? Can meanings be created between the juxtaposition of dress and the objects in the room?

A weekly definition taken from the website: MEASURED 1. Against chaos; a way of thinking about disarray; calculated excess. 2. The fitted as fitting. 3. Proportion as the mother of virtue. 4. The milder ecstasies of the considered. 5. Contained by the idea of containment.

The word and their phrases present one idea of what it is you are viewing, whilst the objects potentially visualise and neuter simultaneously them. The sentences add conflict as they embellish the meaning of the single word and the idea of why we dress, collect and preserve.

No word is mealy a word, it becomes heavy through each individual understanding of it’s context. Each interpretation of the exhibits arrived upon by our unique thought processes formed by our own experiences. It is an oddly lonely experience wandering though the locked archives looking at how meaning is embedded into objects. Can meanings be created from the idea that a function of the archive is personal, an act of preservation and eventually historical.

Creased the final exhibit presented a Junya Watanabe dress behind the bars of an old coal bunker open to the outside world. The end mimics the beginning (the first exhibit high on the roof stands a ghostly gown open to the elements, it’s resin skeleton delicate in the glare and heat of the sun) two decisions that scream against the museums usual desire to keep everything hidden, safe and in temperature controlled room to ensure the objects preservation.


Armoured

Seen against the sky scape of London, the resin dress showed just how delicate the human body, our sense of dress and concepts of who we are can be against the hard bustling ever moving city.

Take yourself on a guided walk through an unseen section of our national museums, question the ideas of preservation and the difference between the museum’s archive and your personal ‘hoard’
Watch the trailer here: the_concise_dictionary_of_dress_trailer

Trailer: The Concise Dictionary of a Dress
sales photo by Julian Abrams” width=”480″ height=”640″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-18752″ />
Conformist

Blythe House, once a colossal bustling post office savings bank full of clerks’ activity now stands (almost) empty as a memorial to times past. Currently the home of not only the Victoria and Albert Archives but the British and Science Museum it double doors remain closed even to those who work in the museums. It takes a special request to get inside these vaults.

Luckily for a limited time (these doors swing back tight at the end of June) the V&A section has had its doors pushed slightly ajar by fashion curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Philips. Together they have curated a delicate show examining ideas and understandings of dress alongside concepts of preservation in the midst of a vast archive that documents humanity’s progression.


Essential

Titled The Concise Dictionary of a Dress, the exhibition consists of 11 exhibits nestling amongst the archives, taking up position in the nooks and crannies of the ghostly building. The audience is shepherded silently though the sections of the building we were allowed to see, at times overwhelmed by the space and the delicate nature of the objects it protects. Eyes were all too often caught by the wondrous treasures awaiting selection by V&A curators, their position elevated from number x of an extensive hoard into object A indicative of the human condition.

11 exhibits accompanied by 11 pieces of card form a mini-lexicon of dress (a concise representation of ideas of what it is to ‘dress’). Is it as comfortable suggests … or do you find yourself agreeing with Loose? Or do the words fall flat?

Armoured
Comfortable
Conformist
Creased
Essential
Fashionable
Loose
Measured
Plain
Pretentious
Tight

Words and their meanings can provide a point of conflict: at times the words on the card and the image of dress produced a harmonious moment of why people chose particular items of dress. In this moment the dictionary of a dress becomes clear as the exhibition mirrors the dictionary’s almost circular nature of providing two meanings for one word.

The curators have invited the audience into a hidden world; the vast depths of the museum. The audiences’ eye drawn to objects not in the exhibition but whose presence demands attention: Why is it there? Why did they choose this room or that cupboard? Can meanings be created between the juxtaposition of dress and the objects in the room?

A weekly definition taken from the website: MEASURED 1. Against chaos; a way of thinking about disarray; calculated excess. 2. The fitted as fitting. 3. Proportion as the mother of virtue. 4. The milder ecstasies of the considered. 5. Contained by the idea of containment.

The word and their phrases present one idea of what it is you are viewing, whilst the objects potentially visualise and neuter simultaneously them. The sentences add conflict as they embellish the meaning of the single word and the idea of why we dress, collect and preserve.

No word is mealy a word, it becomes heavy through each individual understanding of it’s context. Each interpretation of the exhibits arrived upon by our unique thought processes formed by our own experiences. It is an oddly lonely experience wandering though the locked archives looking at how meaning is embedded into objects. Can meanings be created from the idea that a function of the archive is personal, an act of preservation and eventually historical.

Creased the final exhibit presented a Junya Watanabe dress behind the bars of an old coal bunker open to the outside world. The end mimics the beginning (the first exhibit high on the roof stands a ghostly gown open to the elements, it’s resin skeleton delicate in the glare and heat of the sun) two decisions that scream against the museums usual desire to keep everything hidden, safe and in temperature controlled room to ensure the objects preservation.


Armoured

Seen against the sky scape of London, the resin dress showed just how delicate the human body, our sense of dress and concepts of who we are can be against the hard bustling ever moving city.

Take yourself on a guided walk through an unseen section of our national museums, question the ideas of preservation and the difference between the museum’s archive and your personal ‘hoard.’

Watch the trailer here: The Concise Dictionary of a Dress
approved photo by Julian Abrams” width=”480″ height=”640″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-18752″ />
Conformist

Blythe House, once a colossal bustling post office savings bank full of clerks’ activity now stands (almost) empty as a memorial to times past. Currently the home of not only the Victoria and Albert Archives but the British and Science Museum it double doors remain closed even to those who work in the museums. It takes a special request to get inside these vaults.

Luckily for a limited time (these doors swing back tight at the end of June) the V&A section has had its doors pushed slightly ajar by fashion curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Philips. Together they have curated a delicate show examining ideas and understandings of dress alongside concepts of preservation in the midst of a vast archive that documents humanity’s progression.


Essential

Titled The Concise Dictionary of a Dress, the exhibition consists of 11 exhibits nestling amongst the archives, taking up position in the nooks and crannies of the ghostly building. The audience is shepherded silently though the sections of the building we were allowed to see, at times overwhelmed by the space and the delicate nature of the objects it protects. Eyes were all too often caught by the wondrous treasures awaiting selection by V&A curators, their position elevated from number x of an extensive hoard into object A indicative of the human condition.

11 exhibits accompanied by 11 pieces of card form a mini-lexicon of dress (a concise representation of ideas of what it is to ‘dress’). Is it as comfortable suggests … or do you find yourself agreeing with Loose? Or do the words fall flat?

Armoured
Comfortable
Conformist
Creased
Essential
Fashionable
Loose
Measured
Plain
Pretentious
Tight

Words and their meanings can provide a point of conflict: at times the words on the card and the image of dress produced a harmonious moment of why people chose particular items of dress. In this moment the dictionary of a dress becomes clear as the exhibition mirrors the dictionary’s almost circular nature of providing two meanings for one word.

The curators have invited the audience into a hidden world; the vast depths of the museum. The audiences’ eye drawn to objects not in the exhibition but whose presence demands attention: Why is it there? Why did they choose this room or that cupboard? Can meanings be created between the juxtaposition of dress and the objects in the room?

A weekly definition taken from the website: MEASURED 1. Against chaos; a way of thinking about disarray; calculated excess. 2. The fitted as fitting. 3. Proportion as the mother of virtue. 4. The milder ecstasies of the considered. 5. Contained by the idea of containment.

The word and their phrases present one idea of what it is you are viewing, whilst the objects potentially visualise and neuter simultaneously them. The sentences add conflict as they embellish the meaning of the single word and the idea of why we dress, collect and preserve.

No word is mealy a word, it becomes heavy through each individual understanding of it’s context. Each interpretation of the exhibits arrived upon by our unique thought processes formed by our own experiences. It is an oddly lonely experience wandering though the locked archives looking at how meaning is embedded into objects. Can meanings be created from the idea that a function of the archive is personal, an act of preservation and eventually historical.

Creased the final exhibit presented a Junya Watanabe dress behind the bars of an old coal bunker open to the outside world. The end mimics the beginning (the first exhibit high on the roof stands a ghostly gown open to the elements, it’s resin skeleton delicate in the glare and heat of the sun) two decisions that scream against the museums usual desire to keep everything hidden, safe and in temperature controlled room to ensure the objects preservation.


Armoured

Seen against the sky scape of London, the resin dress showed just how delicate the human body, our sense of dress and concepts of who we are can be against the hard bustling ever moving city.

Take yourself on a guided walk through an unseen section of our national museums, question the ideas of preservation and the difference between the museum’s archive and your personal ‘hoard.’

Watch the trailer here: The Concise Dictionary of a Dress
abortion photo by Julian Abrams” width=”480″ height=”640″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-18752″ />
Conformist

Blythe House, patient once a colossal bustling post office savings bank full of clerks’ activity now stands (almost) empty as a memorial to times past. Currently the home of not only the Victoria and Albert Archives but the British and Science Museum it double doors remain closed even to those who work in the museums. It takes a special request to get inside these vaults.

viagra photo by Julian Abrams” width=”480″ height=”640″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-18750″ />

Luckily for a limited time (these doors swing back tight at the end of June) the V&A section has had its doors pushed slightly ajar by fashion curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Philips. Together they have curated a delicate show examining ideas and understandings of dress alongside concepts of preservation in the midst of a vast archive that documents humanity’s progression.


Essential

Titled The Concise Dictionary of a Dress, the exhibition consists of 11 exhibits nestling amongst the archives, taking up position in the nooks and crannies of the ghostly building. The audience is shepherded silently though the sections of the building we were allowed to see, at times overwhelmed by the space and the delicate nature of the objects it protects. Eyes were all too often caught by the wondrous treasures awaiting selection by V&A curators, their position elevated from number x of an extensive hoard into object A indicative of the human condition.

11 exhibits accompanied by 11 pieces of card form a mini-lexicon of dress (a concise representation of ideas of what it is to ‘dress’). Is it as comfortable suggests … or do you find yourself agreeing with Loose? Or do the words fall flat?

Armoured
Comfortable
Conformist
Creased
Essential
Fashionable
Loose
Measured
Plain
Pretentious
Tight

Words and their meanings can provide a point of conflict: at times the words on the card and the image of dress produced a harmonious moment of why people chose particular items of dress. In this moment the dictionary of a dress becomes clear as the exhibition mirrors the dictionary’s almost circular nature of providing two meanings for one word.

The curators have invited the audience into a hidden world; the vast depths of the museum. The audiences’ eye drawn to objects not in the exhibition but whose presence demands attention: Why is it there? Why did they choose this room or that cupboard? Can meanings be created between the juxtaposition of dress and the objects in the room?

A weekly definition taken from the website: MEASURED 1. Against chaos; a way of thinking about disarray; calculated excess. 2. The fitted as fitting. 3. Proportion as the mother of virtue. 4. The milder ecstasies of the considered. 5. Contained by the idea of containment.

The word and their phrases present one idea of what it is you are viewing, whilst the objects potentially visualise and neuter simultaneously them. The sentences add conflict as they embellish the meaning of the single word and the idea of why we dress, collect and preserve.

No word is mealy a word, it becomes heavy through each individual understanding of it’s context. Each interpretation of the exhibits arrived upon by our unique thought processes formed by our own experiences. It is an oddly lonely experience wandering though the locked archives looking at how meaning is embedded into objects. Can meanings be created from the idea that a function of the archive is personal, an act of preservation and eventually historical.

Creased the final exhibit presented a Junya Watanabe dress behind the bars of an old coal bunker open to the outside world. The end mimics the beginning (the first exhibit high on the roof stands a ghostly gown open to the elements, it’s resin skeleton delicate in the glare and heat of the sun) two decisions that scream against the museums usual desire to keep everything hidden, safe and in temperature controlled room to ensure the objects preservation.


Armoured

Seen against the sky scape of London, the resin dress showed just how delicate the human body, our sense of dress and concepts of who we are can be against the hard bustling ever moving city.

Take yourself on a guided walk through an unseen section of our national museums, question the ideas of preservation and the difference between the museum’s archive and your personal ‘hoard.’

Watch the trailer here: The Concise Dictionary of a Dress

Illustration by Emma Rockett, viagra dosage from her graduate work

So on Sunday it was down to the beautifully named Anastasia Arden-Maccabee to open the Edinburgh College of Art show on Sunday. Her fresh colour palette of a variety of pastel colours brought welcome respite from a lot of monochrome collections at Graduate Fashion Week.

Models were draped in lightweight fabrics that skimmed the knee and gave shapely silhouettes. Intricate flaps and folds had created the illusion of origami.

Making more literal use of Origami techniques was Eliza Borkowska, whose models appeared like futuristic sirens. Defining creases and thick lines shaped short dresses into artistic creations, of which Martin Margiela could even put his name to.

Charlotte Helyar’s collection was one of the most innovative and enjoyable of the week – enjoyable because it was hilarious to watch everybody scrabble for their 3D glasses as her first model appeared.

She’d made use of 3D print techniques, see – and applied them to floor-length dresses and floaty, flattering tops.


Illustration by Charlotte Helyar, from her graduate work

Emma Rockett’s collection screamed English heritage, another theme we’ve seen a lot of this week. Emma had executed it with panache. Traditional tailoring techniques were employed for candy-stripe blazers and high-waisted skirts, accessorised with up-side-down Boater hats and vibrant pink stockings.


Illustration by Emma Rockett, from her graduate work

It was Lisa Leissos who presented the most demure, sophisticated collection of this bunch. Her all-red collection of maxi-dresses and knitwear had real flare, and deeper reds were used for some classic knitwear. Sweeping lines gave the collection a very modern feel.


Illustration by Lisa Leissos, from her graduate work

A refreshing change came in the form of Alistair Nimmo’s mermaid-like goddesses. Flamenco-style fringing on skirt waists and hems created this desired effect, but a palette of nude, aqua and navy kept it contemporary and grown-up. Bustiers and jackets with circles at the chest also gave the collection a sexy edge.

Alexander White’s sweetheart necklines and tulip skirts also oozed sex appeal, while harsh tailored trouser suits contrasted this. Alexander has used an interesting technique for skirts, which had an anatomical look – God knows what it was, but I suspect it may have been organza or wool (!) weaved together in organic forms.

I also loved Isabel Wong’s layered organza jackets and dresses with olive green and nude colours; Louise Manson’s bohemian-inspired collection with synched waists, blouson sleeves and tiny knitted caps; and Louise Holgrove’s exaggerated paper-bag waists and sumptuous, heavy materials.

It was to Qi Zhang to close the show, and while I really liked her modernist collection, I didn’t think it was the best. Models wore lampshade-shaped helmets which were just about translucent enough for them to see, and her patchwork ensembles inspired by her mother made great use of a variety of materials.

While Edinburgh may not have had an outrageous show-stopper, it had technique, innovation and originality aplenty.

Splendid!

All photographs by Matt Bramford

sildenafil photo by Julian Abrams” width=”480″ height=”640″ class=”aligncenter size-full wp-image-18752″ />
Conformist

Blythe House, once a colossal bustling post office savings bank full of clerks’ activity now stands (almost) empty as a memorial to times past. Currently the home of not only the Victoria and Albert Archives but the British and Science Museum it double doors remain closed even to those who work in the museums. It takes a special request to get inside these vaults.

Luckily for a limited time (these doors swing back tight at the end of June) the V&A section has had its doors pushed slightly ajar by fashion curator Judith Clark and psychoanalyst Adam Philips. Together they have curated a delicate show examining ideas and understandings of dress alongside concepts of preservation in the midst of a vast archive that documents humanity’s progression.


Essential

Titled The Concise Dictionary of a Dress, the exhibition consists of 11 exhibits nestling amongst the archives, taking up position in the nooks and crannies of the ghostly building. The audience is shepherded silently though the sections of the building we were allowed to see, at times overwhelmed by the space and the delicate nature of the objects it protects. Eyes were all too often caught by the wondrous treasures awaiting selection by V&A curators, their position elevated from number x of an extensive hoard into object A indicative of the human condition.

11 exhibits accompanied by 11 pieces of card form a mini-lexicon of dress (a concise representation of ideas of what it is to ‘dress’). Is it as comfortable suggests … or do you find yourself agreeing with Loose? Or do the words fall flat?

Armoured
Comfortable
Conformist
Creased
Essential
Fashionable
Loose
Measured
Plain
Pretentious
Tight

Words and their meanings can provide a point of conflict: at times the words on the card and the image of dress produced a harmonious moment of why people chose particular items of dress. In this moment the dictionary of a dress becomes clear as the exhibition mirrors the dictionary’s almost circular nature of providing two meanings for one word.

The curators have invited the audience into a hidden world; the vast depths of the museum. The audiences’ eye drawn to objects not in the exhibition but whose presence demands attention: Why is it there? Why did they choose this room or that cupboard? Can meanings be created between the juxtaposition of dress and the objects in the room?

A weekly definition taken from the website: MEASURED 1. Against chaos; a way of thinking about disarray; calculated excess. 2. The fitted as fitting. 3. Proportion as the mother of virtue. 4. The milder ecstasies of the considered. 5. Contained by the idea of containment.

The word and their phrases present one idea of what it is you are viewing, whilst the objects potentially visualise and neuter simultaneously them. The sentences add conflict as they embellish the meaning of the single word and the idea of why we dress, collect and preserve.

No word is mealy a word, it becomes heavy through each individual understanding of it’s context. Each interpretation of the exhibits arrived upon by our unique thought processes formed by our own experiences. It is an oddly lonely experience wandering though the locked archives looking at how meaning is embedded into objects. Can meanings be created from the idea that a function of the archive is personal, an act of preservation and eventually historical.

Creased the final exhibit presented a Junya Watanabe dress behind the bars of an old coal bunker open to the outside world. The end mimics the beginning (the first exhibit high on the roof stands a ghostly gown open to the elements, it’s resin skeleton delicate in the glare and heat of the sun) two decisions that scream against the museums usual desire to keep everything hidden, safe and in temperature controlled room to ensure the objects preservation.


Armoured

Seen against the sky scape of London, the resin dress showed just how delicate the human body, our sense of dress and concepts of who we are can be against the hard bustling ever moving city.

Take yourself on a guided walk through an unseen section of our national museums, question the ideas of preservation and the difference between the museum’s archive and your personal ‘hoard.’

Watch the trailer here: The Concise Dictionary of a Dress

Amelia’s Magazine came across Anka Dabrowska’s exquisite work whilst perusing Payne Shurvell’s Bright and Guilty Place Exhibition (see Amelia’s Magazine review here). Anka’s drawings result from frequent fact finding missions to Poland’s captial, sales Warsaw. These delicate graphite studies (complete with uncontrolled graffiti marks) of the city’s geographical elements draw attention to the multiple ways one’s presence can inhabit a city. Amelia’s Magazine interviewed Anka to discuss the relationship played out in her work between Warsaw and memory.

How does the idea of “disparity between one’s personal relationship to, generic and the collective memory, rx of a given place” feed into your practice?

My work is about my personal experience of a specific place but it’s not exclusive, it lends itself to collective memory of a given place. Autobiography is represented indirectly or in fragments. The audiences faced with my work bring to it their own experiences of the city, whether it is Hackney estates, kiosks or any other aspects of urban living. My projects are made with specific spaces in mind, the idea grows from the experience of the city and how people live and enjoy public/private spaces.

How does your depiction of Warsaw in the drawings, relate to your artistic practice involving ‘fact finding missions’.

My practice concerns merging ideas of memory and imagination in relation to my upbringing in Warsaw. Domestic and urban landscape is a key focus of my work. Warsaw is somewhere to which I return again and again for inspiration.

I left Warsaw age 13 and moved with my parents and sister to Doha, Qatar in Middle East. This was a huge culture shock for me! I went to international school there where I had to learn quickly how to speak English. I’ve always known that I wanted to make art, to be an artist. After completing my A levels in Doha I applied for scholarships in the UK. I received a scholarship from Oxfordshire School of Art. I therefore left home age 18 and moved to England by myself which yet again was another culture shock!

My practice is solely based on my early experience of growing up in Warsaw’s tower blocks. ‘Fact finding missions’ are about returning to my hometown in order to re-experience these places, document them as they are today and translate this experience into new work (ongoing project). There is an intrinsic connection between a work of art and the environment in which it was created. How I grew up has an enormous influence on the way that I make art now.

Drawing is the foundation of my practice. I see all of my work as drawing or as extension of drawing – whether it is drawing on paper, 3-D object or installation.

Why did you decide to document this relationship through pencil and paper?

My work evolves naturally where it takes me on a journey. I don’t plan my works/ what I am going to draw or what mediums I am going to use. It evolves through experimentation and constant making. It feels right when it’s right, you can’t force these thing. Ideas about making art usually come purely by chance. I am a person who always has to do something. If I cannot do anything, I’m in a very bad way. But really I’m always working on something. And I always want to work too.

What is the relation in the drawings between the graphite pencil and the marks of spray painted graffiti?

Graffiti becomes another beautiful mark-making tool, but it also relates to the urban environment of the city. There is a wonderful relationship between the fine and very controlled line of graphite pencil and almost ‘hard to control’ mark made using spray paint. Graffiti tags are signatures that re-mark the territories and add meanings to the city.

How did the 3D models develop from the illustrations??

Yet, again they just happened one day through experimentation. I see them as extension of my drawing/3-D drawing. I actively collect materials that inspire me but also materials that relate to urban environment. I incorporate my own photographs of Warsaw neighbourhoods to give the works an element of realism and use collage technique spontaneously to create these structures/3-D drawings. I use these various found materials for their textures and colours and see them as yet another mark-making tools. Fabricated from cheap, trashy materials that, like ready-mades, reveal the vestiges of their earlier use, in some places only loosely attached, in others taped together, these pieces are characterized by an extreme fragility.

In most of my works overlaps occur between drawing, sculpture, photography and installation-these are artworks composed of independent elements of information, which in the process of relating to each other generate new meanings.

Could you explain your description of the buildings in Warsaw as claustrophobic?

My experience of living in tower blocks have been claustrophobic due to small living spaces and large numbers of inhabitants. There was never enough space to play, to study, or to just be alone. Most of my 3-D structures correspond to the blocks of flats I was living in at the time.

Because I left Warsaw and moved to Middle East then England I have a constant feeling of being inside and outside, a native and a foreigner. I think it is this sense of in-between-ness, more than the experience of living in blocks of flats that shapes my art practice. The distance allows me to think dialectically about the beauty and tragedy of my surroundings.

What was your experience of studying at Northumbria University?

My two-year part-time MA in Fine Art course enabled me to have an uninterrupted period of focusing solely on my work, experimenting with drawing, sculpture, reading and researching. Unlike London-based MA courses, where groups are too large, my course of 12 people enabled intimate environment for critical discussion, which to me was most valid aspect of that time. However, being proper city girl, I always new deep in my heart that London was place for me! After my MA and one year working at the BALTIC Centre for Contemporary Art I moved here in 2004 and fell in love with the city. London for me feels like true home, more so than any other city I live in!

Which artists or illustrators inspire your work either now or at university?

I find my inspiration from cities, day to day observations of urban living (sitting in coffee shops, making notes in sketchbook, walking/cycling through city). I also find music, literature and film has more inspiration for my practice. I do however visit a lot of exhibitions, a recent show I found very refreshing, inspiring and playful was the Whitechapel Gallery show of Rachel Harrison ‘Conquest of the Useless’.

When did you first pick up a pencil?

Childhood, I always drew from as early as I remember…drawing is something I do all the time, it’s like another language, way of communicating, but it’s also our prime way of communicating, everyone can draw.

Have any writers inspired you on the subject of Memory?

Recent books that inspired me:

1. ‘Estates’, Lynsey Hanley
2. ‘Home’, Alison Blunt & Robyn Dowling
3. ‘Architecture of Happiness’, Alain de Botton
4. ‘Wanderlust- A History of Walking ’, Rebecca Solnit
5. ‘Geography of Home’, Akiko Busch

Where did the idea to draw on paper bags come from? How do you decide what to draw?

One day I picked up a paper bag on the street and scribbled something on it. I got really excited about this new ‘canvas’. It gave me something more than just blank paper to work. Paper bags with their endless forms, colours and textures provided and offered new meanings and possibilities. For me communism meets consumerism in these quirky drawings.

What were the ideas behind the Block House Exhibition?

‘Blockhouse’ exhibition was conceived by Jealous Gallery, Crouch End, London. They wanted to showcase mine and Jeni Snell’s work in a small environment. Therefore my installation become almost like one big sculpture made up of more than 40 3-D structures depicting Warsaw’s kiosks and tower blocks. A cityscape.

A Bright and Guilty Place continues until 24th July 2010.

Categories ,A bright and guilty place, ,Anka Dabrowska, ,Baltic, ,drawing, ,graffiti, ,illustration, ,Northumbria, ,Payne Shurvell, ,Warsaw

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Amelia’s Magazine | An interview with Pati Yang plus free download of Wires and Sparks

pati yang by daria hlazatova
Pati Yang by Daria Hlazatova.

You’ve had an extremely interesting life – starting with six years on tour as a youngster with your dad’s punk band – how did that influence your outlook?
It gave me this sense of freedom that somehow clashed with reality. Poland was under an extreme regime at that point and I very early on noticed that our home and people that I was surrounded by were different; free, kind of …awakened… The punk movement in Poland was basically pop music in the 80′s and my dad’s band and the people around us were directly responsible for helping to bring Communism down, so it was risky, even though it was happening on a huge scale via the only major national censored record label. The movement was too big for the government to eradicate because the only free gatherings were allowed at gigs and churches. It was all about smuggling anti-system messages past the censors without getting the band members arrested, and that’s what people loved. There was so much passion! We had a real purpose, giving people hope for freedom, so hundreds of thousands of people went to those gigs and there was a kind of mass hysteria. I had this sense of the absurd, because I was navigating between two opposite worlds whilst I was going to school. I was always an outsider; I didn’t realise I was a kid. I’d hang out backstage when I was 3 and fall asleep under a stack of coats. So the main point is that I can’t stand barriers and limitations. The idea of the impossible just doesn’t occur to me. I love traditions but I am against systems, whatever they are, because they represent a lack of individual responsibility and choice, and sooner or later someone tries to abuse them.
 
pati yang
You have been on the music scene for some time, first as a solo artist supporting Depeche Mode, then as part of Children and then Flykkiller – how did you get to where you are now?
I just kept going; it gets so hard sometimes. I can be very emotional and I worry too much, which is helpful for songwriting but it’s also like shooting fireballs inside my mind. You have to listen to your gut feeling: don’t get attached to ideas, people or places and don’t make plans. It’s a chain reaction that looks like a string of coincidences but you actually know it’s not and when you see that, it becomes fun. I just meet people, I try to learn, things happen, and I am thankful every day.

pati yang by daria hlazatova
Pati Yang by Daria Hlazatova.
 
What’s the underground music scene like in Poland? Any other top tips for acts we should listen to?
I can’t say I follow it that much as I have dragged myself around the world for the past 13 years. But I came across a really cool electronic project called KAMP! recently, and I am a huge fan of Henryk Gorecki which is not very underground as he’s an iconic classical composer. I like all the vintage stuff, bands like Breakout who were total pioneers in the 60′s, then there is Komeda and some other awesome film composers.

pati yang
I’ve had Wires and Sparks from Wires and Sparks EP x 1 on my brain for weeks – why do you think this tune is so catchy?
Aw, thanks! You know the crazy thing about those EPs was that right from the start we just couldn’t pinpoint which tracks should lead them, as everyone we played the songs to would have different favourites. 


How did you come to shoot the video on a Warsaw rooftop? What is that very impressive building behind you?! it looks very gothic!
I spent most of last year in Brooklyn where bands would regularly set up guerilla gigs on rooftops and play until police took them down. One day I thought I’d be great to do that in Warsaw, so I rang a couple of friends who were film makers and we almost gate crashed this 30 storey office building on Halloween when it was empty, (turned out the security guy was a fan which helped I guess!) The building behind us is really iconic, so well spotted! It was a ‘gift of friendship’ from our Russian comrades in 1955 – there is a similar one on the Red Square in Moscow. Apparently there are rooms with no doors in it and it’s really magnificent: it has this gigantic old white marble public swimming pool in the basement, a purple velvet concert hall and a whole labyrinth of underground corridors used in the past for the Party leaders on the military parades. For the generation of our parents, it was a symbol of the Russian regime; for my generation, it’s an icon of change and chaos. I remember ending up on some amazing random rave parties there…
 
pati yang photo by anna bloda
Who is in your band? Can you introduce us to Kasia? Who does what and is anyone else involved?
I went through so many line ups and I really love to work with big bands but somehow it feels really good to have this self contained little combo right now. Kasia is an amazing talent, I met her years ago when she was in a band in Warsaw and we started working together last year. She plays keyboards, bass and she sings backing vocals. I operate my big pedal board with a little mixing desk, effects, a sampler and a guitar and percussion stuff. I have to give a big credit to Mikko, who is our sound engineer but also sort of a third invisible member of the band.

Pati Yang Illustraton by Asa Wikman © asa wikman
Pati Yang Illustraton by Asa Wikman.

What can people expect from a live Pati Yang performance?
The gigs are quite raw and stuff happens unexpectedly, but I get a real buzz out of them. I heard they’re quite emotional… 
 
pati yang photo by anna bloda
You are currently working on a full length album – what’s the day to day reality of this? Can you talk us through the process.
I recently moved back to London from New York so I have only just set up a studio where I spend most of my time, it’s still really fresh and exciting. I am in the middle of the writing process which happens in random places and times really. But then every day I just put those ideas down… at the moment I play all instruments and record vocals but I am really looking forward to getting other people involved. It’s always really touching to blend genes and see what happens if you let it go.
 
Pati Yang by Gareth A Hopkins
Pati Yang by Gareth A Hopkins.

What has been your biggest achievement to date?
These days just to carry on is a huge achievement. I know so many people who have way more talent than myself who put it on the back burner because it’s so difficult to sustain a life and not feel down about the music business these days. I have a lot of gratitude towards whatever and whoever makes me carry on. Factually, I guess I am really chuffed I had the chance to collaborate on some great soundtracks with some really super special people; they were my real teachers.
 
pati yang
Where do you currently live and what is best about that place? Where would you take a visitor and why?
I am based in North West London near Hampstead Heath. It’s really quiet and you have to walk a long way to a any cafe or a grocery store, it’s very green and there are not many people around. There is an amazing church in Hampstead; I walked into a Sunday mass by accident and the choir was seriously out of this world. It’s nice to discover those little random gems; these are the moments you won’t forget. If I had a visitor I’d take them there, and we could visit the beautiful old cemetery near the church. There is also a mini zoo in the park near my house with some really funny looking animals. So, you probably won’t find me in a hip cafe in East London – I’m not sure if I’d be any good as a tour guide.

Listen to the Wires and Sparks EP x 1 in full below, released in April. Wires and Sparks x 2 is scheduled to be released at the end of July. Get your FREE download of Jagz Kooner‘s remix of Wires and Sparks here. I can’t wait to hear the album.

Categories ,80s, ,Asa Wikman, ,Breakout, ,brooklyn, ,children, ,Communism, ,Daria Hlazatova, ,Depeche Mode, ,ep, ,Flykkiller, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Hampstead Heath, ,Henryk Gorecki, ,interview, ,Jagz Kooner, ,KAMP!, ,Kasia, ,Komeda, ,Mikko, ,Pati Yang, ,Polish, ,punk, ,Warsaw, ,Wires and Sparks, ,Wires and Sparks EP x 1, ,Wires and Sparks x 2

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