Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Michael Van Der Ham

fashion illustration by Amy Martino

Illustration by Amy Martino

At the Bodyamr show, viagra 100mg the celebrities nearly outshone the clothes. Lily Allen, adiposity Nick Grimshaw, Keisha from the Sugababes and the TV Chef Gizzi Erskine all waltzed in past us mere mortals crammed outside the Vauxhall Fashion Scout hall, (made more manic by the decision to cram two presentations into one catwalk show) cue much jostling and craning of necks by my fellow bloggers to get a good photo.

Once inside, the celeb fest continued – the press release reeled off a list of starlets who loved Bodyamr (Florence Welch, Beyonce, and Cheryl Cole dontcha know), and the crowd whispered about Daisy Lowe opening the show and Kanye West’s girlfriend Amber Rose closing. The scrum for goodie bags as everyone sat down added to the excitement – a recent collaboration with Rixos hotels meant a rather bizarre mix of hotel freebies and glossy brochures was under every seat.

As for the clothes – Bodyamr do a fine line in creating flattering, skin-tight looks for powerful women (hence the appeal for starlets). True to form, their inspiration for S/S 2011 was a cross between Josephine Baker wrapping jewels ‘seductively around her naked body’ and a 90s supermodel. It was a fun, glamorous collection, with pieces that wouldn’t look out of place in Studio 54 (sequins, kaftan style dresses, jersey, Grecian draping), a nice dose of body con and some sheer chiffon dresses printed with art deco jewels (there’s the naked Josephine Baker for you). There was even some slouchy, slinky daywear amongst the goddess dresses tailor-made for the red carpet. And yes, Daisy looked amazing – I just hope people weren’t too star-struck to notice her beautifully draped white jersey jumpsuit.

Illustration by Krister Selin

I was very excited to see what NEWGEN winner Michael Van Der Ham would have in store this season at his first solo show. He’s quickly rising up the fashion ranks – he only bloody graduated a year ago, erectile for God’s sake, more about and it was inevitable that this was going to be a good ‘un.

A quick cycle across Waterloo Bridge took me to the erstwhile Eurostar Terminal at Waterloo Station. London Fashion Week is SO much better by bike. Despite the odd trauma here and there, specific to my unlucky self, to be able to zip between the many venues without relying on public transport is a Godsend.

The building is like a ghost town these days since the firm’s relocation to St Pancras. Apparently it’s costing millions to upkeep, so hopefully Topshop’s little foray into hosting fashion events there has helped. Sir Phillip Green certainly doesn’t need the money, that’s for sure.

Directed by awkward looking teenagers dressed in grey branded bolier suits, we were ushered through the labyrinth that is left behind. There’s something a bit spooky about it – escalators are motionless, luggage belts are empty and all electrical devices like light-up signs for directions are, of course, turned off. There’s also a sense of poignancy in the air in this abandoned haunt. Nobody else seemed to sense this misery as they clacked around on their heels, so this might have been due to the eight coffees I had consumed that morning. Arriving at the top with the beautiful afternoon light bathing through the glass roof was quite something, though.

I had a little wander around, Ham-ing it up and taking a few pics of people glugging booze, and then a loud speaker announced that we should take our seats. The catwalk was the very last platform on the south side of the building, with tiered seating on one side only. Those models sure were close to the track. I did worry, especially after the trend of tumbling models we’ve seen this season.

The usual front rowers were there, including Alexandra Shulman, Brix Smith Start, Anna Dello Russo, and Sarah Mower. While it was nice to be in the daylight, the building doesn’t allow for any dramatic changes in light, so without any prior warning the show began. It’s a long catwalk n’all – there I was, worrying again that these models might not have eaten and would pass out from all that exercise.


Illustration by Krister Selin

Michael Van Der Ham’s clothing is a little odd when you first view it – seams are all over the place, fabrics are diverse, colours clash, outfits are classifiable on one side and then something totally different by the other. But somehow, they work. Rich tones of blue, pale and hot pinks, graphic patterns and pale colours all combine to make unique pieces and were styled very simply to allow them to have maximum impact. Themes like disco and dance spring to mind.

Because of Michael’s expert fusing of varying fabrics and cuts, there isn’t really any kind of silhouette to talk about – skirts were short, and then long; necklines were high, and then low; waists were diagonal and then horizontal, sleeves were short and then high – there was bias cut, flattering fabrics, body-con fabrics, the lot… I was a nervous wreck by the time the show finished. It’s all pretty baffling but beautiful to look at.

My favourite elements were crushed velours and velvets, embellished skirts, skirts that had been gathered to create gorgeous, soft shapes, and floating translucent fabrics that were attached like super-hero capes.

It’s a brave woman that can pull off the Michael Van Der Ham look. But those who can, should.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Categories ,Eurostar, ,illustration, ,Krister Selin, ,London Fashion Week, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Newgen, ,platform, ,review, ,S/S 2011, ,Topshop Space, ,Waterloo

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Mary Katrantzou


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

I don’t usually do much during fashion week on Mondays and Tuesdays. That’s because I have a day job. But when Amelia offered me tickets to Michael Van Der Ham during Monday lunchtime and Mary Katrantzou on Tuesday morning, no rx I couldn’t resist. It would be a push – a swift Boris from Southwark with moments to spare, see but I thought hell, side effects I’ll give it a go.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Lesley Barnes

By the time I arrived at Waterloo on Tuesday morning, a queue of standing ticket owners had already formed. Christ, these queues don’t half drag you down. I stood puffing on a cigarette as photographers run down the line to take pictures, interns offer The Daily and other free stuff while a whole host of people in enormous heels leg it inside. ‘Why am I bothering?!’ I thought to myself. Well, it only took the first look to appear at the start of Katrantzou‘s show to make me realise.


All photography by Matt Bramford

I didn’t have a hope in hell of getting my hand on a press release, lest a seat or one of Mary’s covetable, seasonal goodie bags, this time in black with a gorgeous fuchsia print (from what I could see). So I looked around the cavernous old Eurostar station for clues as to what Katrantzou might deliver this season. I didn’t have to look far. The entire runway had been transformed with a vast bank of erect carnations, framed from the back by a huge metal structure; a stark juxtaposition of natural and industrial which was to prevail as Katrantzou‘s inspiration for this stunning collection.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Karolina Burdon

I took a spot next to the photographer’s pit, manoeuvring behind anybody that looked remotely short – some mean feat at fashion week. The show started pretty soon after I finally entered the venue, which was literal music to my ears. It’s so easy to see why Mary Katrantzou has built up such an enormous following. What a breathtaking collection! I vaguely remember a quote in an interview that Katrantzou gave saying that she was worried if she pushed it any further, nobody would wear her clothes. Well there was no shortage of fans here today.

I’m so pleased I caught this show, despite my horrendous view: Katrantzou’s fascination with artificial against organic had been magically infused into this bright and bold collection. Digital prints featuring abstract elements of tin cans, microphones and car parts were the mainstay on mid-length dresses with translucent trains floating from the back. Saturated colours of all kinds – burnt organ, plum, greens, yellows, hot pink and cyan were aplenty, as if they had been painted onto the garments as the models wore them. You would be forgiven for thinking that it was all a bit of a mismatch, but discreet changes in cut and colour and the dramatic setting brought the collection together wonderfully.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Mary‘s inimitable cocktail dresses this time seemed a little softer; dresses that began from one shoulder nipped in at the waist before blossoming out again to create an ideal silhouette. Katrantzou also showed sharp tailoring with blazers and trousers that were married together with the same vivid colours and abstract prints. But it will be the dynamic cutting of dresses and the breathtaking finale – a bias cut creation made entirely from brightly colour metals – that we’ll remember this collection for.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Lesley Barnes

At the risk of sounding like an absolute berk, it was a real fashion moment. And I never say that. I left reeling. I’m sure the BFC are bending over backwards to keep Mary on our London Fashion Week schedule, but I fear it won’t be long before, like our other exceptional talent, she flies the nest to meet the demands of the global fashion market. For now, though, I feel privileged to have witnessed such an phenomenal display of world class fashion.


All photography by Matt Bramford

See the show here:

Categories ,BFC, ,catwalk, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Digital Prints, ,Eurostar Terminal, ,fashion, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lesley Barnes, ,London Fashion Week, ,Machine, ,Man made, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matt Bramford, ,metallics, ,nature, ,organic, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,SS12, ,tailoring, ,Topshop Space, ,Waterloo

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Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: Mary Katrantzou


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

I don’t usually do much during fashion week on Mondays and Tuesdays. That’s because I have a day job. But when Amelia offered me tickets to Michael Van Der Ham during Monday lunchtime and Mary Katrantzou on Tuesday morning, I couldn’t resist. It would be a push – a swift Boris from Southwark with moments to spare, but I thought hell, I’ll give it a go.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Lesley Barnes

By the time I arrived at Waterloo on Tuesday morning, a queue of standing ticket owners had already formed. Christ, these queues don’t half drag you down. I stood puffing on a cigarette as photographers run down the line to take pictures, interns offer The Daily and other free stuff while a whole host of people in enormous heels leg it inside. ‘Why am I bothering?!’ I thought to myself. Well, it only took the first look to appear at the start of Katrantzou’s show to make me realise.


All photography by Matt Bramford

I didn’t have a hope in hell of getting my hand on a press release, lest a seat or one of Mary’s covetable, seasonal goodie bags, this time in black with a gorgeous fuchsia print (from what I could see). So I looked around the cavernous old Eurostar station for clues as to what Katrantzou might deliver this season. I didn’t have to look far. The entire runway had been transformed with a vast bank of erect carnations, framed from the back by a huge metal structure; a stark juxtaposition of natural and industrial which was to prevail as Katrantzou’s inspiration for this stunning collection.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Karolina Burdon

I took a spot next to the photographer’s pit, manoeuvring behind anybody that looked remotely short – some mean feat at fashion week. The show started pretty soon after I finally entered the venue, which was literal music to my ears. It’s so easy to see why Mary Katrantzou has built up such an enormous following. What a breathtaking collection! I vaguely remember a quote in an interview that Katrantzou gave saying that she was worried if she pushed it any further, nobody would wear her clothes. Well there was no shortage of fans here today.

I’m so pleased I caught this show, despite my horrendous view: Katrantzou’s fascination with artificial against organic had been magically infused into this bright and bold collection. Digital prints featuring abstract elements of tin cans, microphones and car parts were the mainstay on mid-length dresses with translucent trains floating from the back. Saturated colours of all kinds – burnt organ, plum, greens, yellows, hot pink and cyan were aplenty, as if they had been painted onto the garments as the models wore them. You would be forgiven for thinking that it was all a bit of a mismatch, but discreet changes in cut and colour and the dramatic setting brought the collection together wonderfully.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Joana Faria

Mary’s inimitable cocktail dresses this time seemed a little softer; dresses that began from one shoulder nipped in at the waist before blossoming out again to create an ideal silhouette. Katrantzou also showed sharp tailoring with blazers and trousers that were married together with the same vivid colours and abstract prints. But it will be the dynamic cutting of dresses and the breathtaking finale – a bias cut creation made entirely from brightly colour metals – that we’ll remember this collection for.


Mary Katrantzou S/S 2012 by Lesley Barnes

At the risk of sounding like an absolute berk, it was a real fashion moment. And I never say that. I left reeling. I’m sure the BFC are bending over backwards to keep Mary on our London Fashion Week schedule, but I fear it won’t be long before, like our other exceptional talent, she flies the nest to meet the demands of the global fashion market. For now, though, I feel privileged to have witnessed such an phenomenal display of world class fashion.


All photography by Matt Bramford

See the show here:

Categories ,BFC, ,catwalk, ,Christian Louboutin, ,Digital Prints, ,Eurostar Terminal, ,fashion, ,Joana Faria, ,Karolina Burdon, ,Lesley Barnes, ,London Fashion Week, ,Machine, ,Man made, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Matt Bramford, ,metallics, ,nature, ,organic, ,review, ,S/S 2012, ,SS12, ,tailoring, ,Topshop Space, ,Waterloo

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Amelia’s Magazine | Hell’s Half Acre: A Review

Back Camera
Blue Fever by Polly Morgan. Photograph by Tim Adey

On Monday night, treat Amelia’s Magazine delved into the depths of hell, site handily located beneath London’s Waterloo Station. For a limited time (show ends on the 17th October), Lazarides Gallery in collaboration with The Old Vic Tunnels have recreated Dante’s Inferno within the bowels of London’s Transport system.

Photograph by Sally Mumby-Croft

The journey begins with a preamble through a heavily graffitied (and location of Banksy’s last exhibition in London) tunnel behind Waterloo Station.

If like me, you are unfamiliar with the nine circles of Hell, let’s have a quick recap! Limbo, Lush, Gluttony (or the Worldwide Banking system), Avarice and Prodigality (Hoarders or Squanders of possessions), Wrath and Sullenness, Heresy, Violence, Fraud and finally the ninth circle is Treachery.

Artist: Zac Ove Photograph by Sally Mumby-Croft

Hell it appears, is a heavily stratified society (not that dissimilar from our own??), where the ring you inhabit is entirely dependent on various decision makers on the level of your sin… First up are those whose punishment for doing nothing with their lives -either for good or evil- is to remain outside the doors of Hell. Dante then progresses into Limbo, where the unbaptised and non-sinners, who rejected the word of God are doomed to stay in an decrepit form of heaven. The eight remaining circles bore into the centre of the Earth until Satan is revealed bound in chains.

Holy Smoke Quintet by Conor Harrington, Photograph by Ian Cox

After researching Danta’s Inferno on the internet, each sin’s punishment takes the form of poetic justice, for example “fortune-tellers have to walk forwards with their heads on backwards, unable to see what is ahead, because they tried, through forbidden means to look ahead to future in life” What poetic justice lies ahead for those who tried to predict the future through the economy? For Steve Lazarides Hell’s Half Acre is “a vision of our hellish society under coalition rule.”

Sun by Paul Insect, Photograph by Sally Mumby-Croft

As my companion and I wondered around the horrors produced in response to Dante’s Inferno (they had been provided with a copy of the book a year before the show) we came across an alcove in which a projection of fire reflected across unmoving water. What is it about fire that never bores us? As my friend noted with images of heaven (Clouds) people tune out fairly quickly, but show the audience a mirrored projection of fire and we’re mesmerised.

Leaping Flames by Doug Foster. Photograph by Sally Mumby-Croft

Corrupt, treacherous and flattering politicians better watch out… Dante has a place for you in the eigth circle of hell, specifically within the fifth stone ditch, where you shall be immersed forever within a lake of boiling pitch.

Artist: Paul Insect, Photograph by Sally Mumby-Croft

Mark Jenkins, Chrysalis 1-6, Photograph by Ian Cox

Mark Jenkin’s Chrysalis, consisted of identical hanging bodies dangling as if caught in a spiders web. The entombed bodies evoked thoughts of Huxley’s A Brave New World and the final outcome of our endless embracement of mass production finally turns on recreating ourselves forever more.

On exiting the exhibition, the audience passes through a fine misty rain, evoking perhaps Dante’s description of the punishment awaiting those more gluttonous members of society… their fate is to lie on the ground, underneath endless icy, poisoned rain, as the empty sensuality of their lives is imprinted forever upon their body.

At the end of the exhibition, the moment of respite arrives in the form of Tokujin Yoshioko’s immense crystal sculpture. Sponsored by Swarovski, this huge sculpture drowns the world in bright white light. An unexpected treat in this dankest of underworlds, for a brief moment Heaven penetrated the circles of hell.

Photograph by Tim Adey

Hell’s Half Acre is an intriguing use of The Old Vic Tunnel’s and I cant wait to see what exhibition comes next… Oh! Before I forget, there was of course, the most excellent bar – what sort of Hell would be without that?!

Hell’s Half Acre runs until the 17th for further information please visit here and here. If you feel like a break from Frieze this year, this might be the perfect alternative.

Categories ,Dante, ,Hell’s Half Acre, ,Inferno, ,Lazarides Gallery, ,Nine Circles of Hell, ,Steve Lazarides, ,The Old Vic Tunnels, ,Waterloo

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Amelia’s Magazine | Review of Vault at The Old Vic Tunnels: Don’t Stray From The Path and The Furies

Wonder Club Dont Stray from the path Vault Arts Heritage 2012
The Wonder Club. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

The dank brick arches beneath Waterloo have become something of a a destination du jour, thanks to The Old Vic‘s requisitioning of them. For Vault, Heritage Arts have been commissioned to fill a whole new section of arches that were until last week used as Network Rail storage – as evidenced by their utilitarian decor, constant temperature units and stacks of metal cabinets.

Wonder Club Dont Stray from the path Vault Arts Heritage 2012
We trotted along to the opening night of a month long run – booked in to see a couple of shows chosen by the PR from a smorgasbord of offerings. Having had no time to check the schedule these were destined to be a complete surprise! First up we were herded into an old office for Don’t Stray From The Path, an interactive performance from Bristol’s The Wonder Club. Things didn’t get off to a great start when an overly hammy young man started reading out texts written by the amassed crowd.

Wonder Club Dont Stray from the path Vault Arts Heritage 2012
This was to be an updated version of the Little Red Riding Hood tale, so we were then herded down the corridor to another room which had been set dressed beautifully, for the main part of the performance. It was here that The Wonder Club really lost me.

Wonder Club Dont Stray from the path Vault Arts Heritage 2012
Don’t Stray From The Path was a brave attempt to pull off an oh so trendy promenade style performance, but it became marred by confusing and pretentious dialogue, over the top acting and mediocre circus skills (it seems everyone wants to hang from a rope these days, maybe we’re all channelling our inner monkey). A shame, as there were some promising ideas here.

The Furies Vault Arts Heritage 2012
Luckily our second pick of the night turned out much better, even though we were completely unprepared for the onslaught that was The Furies. Initial thoughts? That we had been ushered into a heavy metal gig, with musicians thrashing on raised podiums. I was about to take an immediate exit (thinking this was not really the place for a heavily pregnant lady) when our meandering crowd was casually joined by three very different singing sirens, intent on updating the Greek myth of Clytemnestra in dramatically contemporary form.

The Furies Vault Arts Heritage 2012
For an hour they sung and posed and freaked out male members of the audience (again, participation reins supreme for this standing only show). In a nod towards differing expectations of gender the ladies were packaged as opposing extremes; a spindly blonde emphasised her protruding backbone, the redhead made the most of her curvy figure in an elegant bustier, and powerful androgyny was emphasised beneath a heavily fringed black wig. The Furies are a Birmingham based Kindle Theatre female company comprised of Emily Ayres, Samantha Fox and Olivia Winteringham, who have set out to challenge normal concepts of theatre: the result was an unashamedly confident rock opera that drew on classical stories and perceptions of the feminine. The Furies is an acquired taste musically but it was certainly compelling – with startlingly powerful vocals from the redhead.

The Furies Vault Arts Heritage 2012
After we emerged we were directed to the cabaret space, where the band were facing opening night sound difficulties, to the extent that half an hour later we decided to brave the sudden snow flurries and head home. It was in this chilly arch that the recent vacation of Network Rail was most obvious, with it retaining a cold and uninviting air that a drink from the makeshift bar did little to thaw. It’s a shame it could not have been decked out with a bit more finery, but I presume this will come with time.

Vault continues until the end of the month. Check the Vault Festival website for details of upcoming shows.

Categories ,Birmingham, ,bristol, ,Clytemnestra, ,Emily Ayres, ,Heritage Arts, ,Kindle Theatre, ,Little Red Riding Hood, ,Network Rail, ,Olivia Winteringham, ,review, ,Samantha Fox, ,The Old Vic Tunnels, ,The Wonder Club, ,Vault, ,Waterloo

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