It may have been the first ever International Show at Graduate Fashion Week, erectile but the designers did all they could to leave a lasting impression on London; collections came courtesy of universities spanning Europe with one show from students as far as Singapore.
The show launched with a strong start with Wolfgang Jarnach from the Akademie Mode & Design in Munich, ambulance his dark collection was made up of voluminous skirts and shoulders teamed with striking tailored jackets, cost topped off with a dramatic Count Dracula style cape.
In an equally theatrical fashion came Vicole Lang’s collection, which racked up the most air miles for GFW, coming in from the Lasalle College of the Arts in Singapore. The show kicked off with a distinctly fetishism theme opening with a PVC bandage body suit, but seemed to become more gradually demure with each outfit, until the stunning Balenciaga-esque spiked and padded dress closed her a collection in show-stopping fashion.
After Vicole’s electrifying garments, a much needed cool off came courtesy of Lidya Chrisfen’s collection which swished down the runway to the calming sounds of an ebbing tide. The neutral palette, twisted rope detailing and seashell embellishments brought to mind shipwrecks and desert islands, whilst the daringly cut, printed maxi dresses injected a touch of red-carpet glamour to the collection.
Wearability was an apparently unimportant factor for a number of the international designers, as spectators at Earl’s Court witnessed recurring ‘head coverings’ as opposed to headwear from several collections. This theme was kicked off by Linda, hailing from Singapore’s LaSalle College of the Arts, who sent a seemingly ‘blind’ model down the runway in a denim hooded thigh-skimming mini dress, which zipped up balaclava style to the top of her head.
Linda, illustrated by Lisa Billvik
The concept continued in Anna Sergnova’s collection, whose medieval-inspired garments were dreamt up in the halls of Saint Petersburg’s State University of Technology & Design. Four of her six garments completely covered the model’s faces with knight style armour, metal visors and chain-mail helmets, teamed with gauntlets and protective Balmain style padded hips and shoulders. Unfortunately the safety of the models was somewhat blighted by the towering heel-less wedges in which they were precariously balancing on as they walked the runway.
Anna Sergunova, illustrated by Aniela Murphy
Things only got stranger when Amsterdam Fashion Institute student, Floor Kolen’s creations took to the stage, she too showed a penchant for covering the eyes, this time through the medium of masks, rather scary looking plastic bird masks to be precise. She also took the acrylic route for a selection of her garments and accessories including a moulded bust style T-shirt, plastic feet shoes and demi-gloves which only covered the front part of the hand, but would nethertheless render the wearer helpless.
It is often the English that are often regarded as the most eccentric people in the world; but maybe it is time to rethink this stereotype, because actually stranger things can and certainly do happen – just ask the international designers at GFW.
Images courtesy of catwalking.com
Garry Butterfield, viagra photographed by Matt Bramford
We are almost at the end of Graduate Fashion Week for another year, viagra but there’s still plenty of talent left to see.
After hearing that one of the Northampton students, see Garry James Butterfield, had been snapped for Vogue by no other than Rankin I was intrigued to see how the show would pan out.
And it was a right old mix between the neutral pallets and technical draping (grey and navy was everywhere this year) and the ever so slightly eccentric. Perfect!
Hayley Powell: Powell erred on the neutral side sticking to a delicious mix of chocolates, khaki and creamy silks. Even more enticing was the oversized proportions of the high waisted trousers shown with a tucked in top and tied up with a battered leather belt. Definitely a contender to take Chloé’s throne and a winner in my eyes, if only for featuring a beautiful pair of printed culottes.
Hayley Powell, illustrated by Abi Daker
Lauren Dewer: Now the first look in this grouping didn’t have such an appeal but as the models waltzed out the bigger picture became clear. Using piping detail to create frills on skirts and structure on dresses, Dewer pulled off the bumblebee pallet and brought each individual piece together. To top it off, models sported yellow socks over their black tights, still a big look for autumn following on from London Fashion Week in February.
James Cottle: This was the first menswear collection I’ve seen in a while designed by a man. I digress. Cottle pulls together a simplistic uniform of peg leg trousers worn rolled up with romantically bibbed shirts and easy grey marl tops. Finished off with desert boots, the look was so laid back and perfect, the only thing I want to know is what did the badges on the jackets say? A mystery.
Eleanor Burton: A flashback to Dynasty and Robert Palmer’s “Addicted to Love” video aren’t uncommon musings to conjure when watching Burton’s pieces stomp down the catwalk. It was red. It was Black. It was all about shoulders and bodysuits. Simple, yes; but totally wearable all the same. And it shows you don’t need the glitz and glamour to make a statement in fashion.
Eleanor Burton, illustrated by Krister Sellin
Amy Robinson: Nirvana. One simple word that pretty much sums up Robinson’s nod to the 90s. It was grungy lace intertwined with silky vest tops and….cycling shorts? Ok so maybe that’s a piece best left on the catwalk but I’m ready to get me a pair of net curtains and start sewing… (Sorry Gran)!
Amy Robinson, illustrated by Naomi Law
What was nice about the Northampton shows was that they had clearly planned the manoeuvres down to a T. Each designers end pose related to the theme and their collection, and the hair was swept cleanly on top of the head and finished intertwined with ribbon. Beautiful show, well done guys.
Images courtesy of catwalking.com
Written by Jemma Crow on Thursday June 10th, 2010 10:44 am
Categories ,1980s, ,1990s, ,Addicted to Love, ,Amy Robinson, ,Chloe, ,Dynasty, ,Earls Court, ,Eleanor Burton, ,Garry James Butterfield, ,Graduate Fashion Week 2010, ,Hayley Powell, ,James Cottle, ,Lauren Dewer, ,london, ,menswear, ,nirvana, ,Rankin, ,Robert Palmer, ,vogue, ,Womenswear
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