David Koma – AmeliasMagazine

Amelia’s Magazine | Pre- London Fashion Week S/S 2011 On Schedule Womenswear, Part One: New Designers

London Fashion Week Illustration by teabelle

This September London Fashion Week enters the courtyard of Somerset House for its third season. Over the next week Amelia’s Magazine will be previewing both the on and off schedules, viagra 40mg naming the designers to firmly keep your eyes on.

For our first preview we have selected designers who have been showing solo for less than six seasons and have already caused quite a stir within the fashion industry.

Hannah Marshall

You may already be aware of Hannah Marshall’s darkly bold shapes without being aware that you are watching a Hannah Marshall in Florence and the Machine’s music video: The Drumming Song. As an introduction it does not prepare you for the exquisite inkiness of Marshall’s colour palate or embrace of the female figure her clothes propose.

Hannah Marshall by Naomi Law

Watching her S/S 2010 show in an old post office building in Holborn, look was breathtaking. As the models stalked through the space, viagra approved the inky blue effervesced in the dim lighting. Marshall’s A/W 2010 named ‘An Army of Me’ was a continuation of stark cuts along the shoulders, waists enhanced or lost by the cut of jacket alongside bodycon dresses produced in luscious velvet.

Mary Katrantzou

Mary Katrantzou has been experimenting with the boundary pushing possibilities of digital print since her A/W show 2009. The occasional harshness of the prints are softened through Katrantzou’s application of the technique to silk.

The collections are a celebration of the decorative and her clothes are littered with references to the excess of the Baroque or the Rocco periods of art and architectural history.

Mary Katrantzou by Meeralee

However it would be a mistake to confuse these prints as a gimmick, Katrantzou’s interest spreads to the cut of the dress, producing a series of structural tailoring which serve embellish the texture of her designs from short frocks to elegant gowns. Amelia’s Magazine welcomes the break from the increasing dominance of minimalism.

Michael van der Ham

Michael Van Der Ham’s described his a/w 2010 collection of dresses as 3D collages, through which multiple fashion references were stated by an insatiable contrast of colours, fabrics and textures. During graduate season earlier this year his design influence could be felt across the catwalks. What will s/s 2011 bring for van der Haam?

Michael van der Ham by Lulu Biazus

Louise Gray

Central Saint Martins MA Graduate, Louise Gray was a recipient of Lulu Kennedy’s and Fashion East’s ever on the button talent for spotting innovative designers. Gray showed with Fashion East for three seasons, before staging solo presentations with the support of NewGen.

A Louise Gray exhibition begins life at London Fashion Week almost completely bare, before exploding in riotious colour as the exquisite detritus from her presentations fill the space. The clothes, a combination of traditional stitch and embroidery create intriguing collections.

Louise Gray by Jessica Stokes

Amelia’s Magazine’s are delighted by Gray’s decision to stage the collection on a catwalk at On|Off for S/S 2011.

David Koma and Holly Fulton

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton and David Koma. will share a catwalk, Amelia’s Magazine have been watching Koma since his debut as Fashion Scout’s merit winner a year ago this September and cannot wait to see what the designer holds in store.

David Koma by Stuart Whitton

Holly Fulton first blasted onto the scene as part of Fashion East for two seasons, before launching her successful solo a/w 10 collection at London Fashion Week in February 2010. Fulton’s monochromatic colour palate was interspersed with a healthy dose of pop art.

Holly Fulton by Francesca Bourne

The clothes structure referenced the Fulton’s interest in off duty/on duty French daywear crossed with the elegance of Dr Zavargo. Amelia’s Magazine found ourselves bewitched by the bold graphic prints bordering on the illustrative that adorned the collection.

Fashion East

For ten incredible years Fashion East have been at the forefront of spotting and supporting graduates who develop into ‘the’ sought-after designers of our generation.

Heikki by Gemma Randall

This year’s crop are as delectable as ever as Lulu Kennedy introduces Saint Martins MA graduate Simone Rocha and fellow Royal College Graduates Felicity Brown and Heikki Salone.

The excitement of a Fashion East catwalk lies in their ability to reinvent what it is to be feminine and this season is no exception.

For a/w 2010 Heikki Salone presented the tomboy, dressed in black cobwebbed knitwear, that you would wear until it crumbles finished with DM boots. A look -potentially- for fans of Janey from MTV’s hit TV series Daria.

Felicity Brown and Simone Rocha by Gareth A Hopkins

Felicity Brown’s delectable designs are a lesson in vibrant romanticism, a feat not surprising considering her training at Alberta Ferretti, Loewe, Lanvin and Mulberry.

In contrast Simone Rocha’s monochrome MA collection displayed structured modern cuts interspersed with a playful nod towards femininity by her inclusion of netted fuchsia headpieces.

Amelia’s Magazine wait with baited breath to see all of the aforementioned designers collections for s/s 2011.

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Tuesday September 7th, 2010 4:00 pm

Categories ,BFC, ,David Koma, ,Fashion East, ,Felicity Brown, ,Francesca Bourne, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gemma Randall, ,Hannah Marshall, ,Heikki Salone, ,Holly Fulton, ,Jessica Stokes, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Gray, ,Lulu Biazus, ,Lulu Kennedy, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,Meeralee, ,Michael van der Ham, ,Naomi Law, ,On Schedule, ,Simone Rocha, ,Stuart Whitton, ,Teabell, ,teabelle

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011: best Jewellery Designers at Somerset House

frances conteh – lfw – ss11 – jenny robins
Carmen Secareanu On/Off by jenny robins
Illustration by Jenny Robins.

I didn’t make managed to take in the whole of On/Off exhibition this year because I was inevitably racing between shows when I passed through. And I always forget that it finishes a day before the other static shows.

Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Cecile Bahnsen
Two designers that I really warmed to were graduates of the RCA that we’ve already covered. Cecile Bahnsen is a Danish designer who works with complex textile combinations inspired by modernism and resulting in delicate laser cut dresses and geometric shapes galore. I loved the batwing oversized coats, cure apparently a reference to her teenage years in the 90s.

Cecile Bahnsen photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cecilie Bahnsen by Ella Masters.

Frances Conteh
Frances Conteh could be found next door – delightfully colourful in the face of so much tasteful monochrome. Another RCA graduate who specialises in beautiful knitwear, she produced a range of slim fitting graphic dresses and oversized patterned coats in a yummy palate off citrus flavours. Stunning stuff.

Frances Conteh photo by Amelia Gregory

Carmen Secareanu
Hailing from Romania Carmen Secareanu creates strangely shaped garments inspired by “angels or birds”. Her stand was buzzing when I passed, with lots of people trying on her bulbous big shouldered black jacket replete with massive over-sized cuffs. Do garments get larger as models get slimmer, I wonder?

Carmen Secareanau photo by Amelia Gregory
Carmen Secareanu- lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Carmen Secareanu by Jenny Robins.

Iris Serban
Another Romanian designer, Iris Serban plays with subtle broken prints, beading and ruffled textures like the carefully laid out pages of a very old book, rendered in all shades of beige.

Iris Serban photo by Amelia Gregory

Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Laura Theiss
My fifth and final On/Off tip is the work of Lithuanian born Laura Theiss, who first trained in business so she should be good at this fashion malarkey. She’s another knitwear designer and graduate of Central Saint Martins, and divides herself between the UK and Germany. She specialises in the combination of different yarns and colours to create unusual textures and feeling.

Laura Theiss by Ella Masters.

I’m sure I may have missed other talent, but hey, if you close a day before everyone else what do you expect?

Carmen Secareanu On/Off by jenny robins
Illustration by Jenny Robins.

I didn’t make manage to take in the whole of On/Off exhibition this year because I was inevitably racing between shows when I passed through. And I always forget that it finishes a day before the other static shows. But here is the best of what I saw…

Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Cecile Bahnsen
Two designers that I really warmed to were graduates of the RCA that we’ve already covered. Cecile Bahnsen is a Danish designer who works with complex textile combinations inspired by modernism and resulting in delicate laser cut dresses and geometric shapes galore. I loved the batwing oversized coats, medications apparently a reference to her teenage years in the 90s.

Cecile Bahnsen photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cecilie Bahnsen by Ella Masters.

Frances Conteh
Frances Conteh could be found next door – delightfully colourful in the face of so much tasteful monochrome. Another RCA graduate who specialises in beautiful knitwear, side effects she produced a range of slim fitting graphic dresses, price massive mohair cardigans and oversized patterned coats in a yummy palate of citrus flavours. Stunning stuff.

Frances Conteh photo by Amelia Gregory

frances conteh - lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Frances Conteh by Jenny Robins.

Carmen Secareanau photo by Amelia Gregory
Carmen Secareanu- lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Carmen Secareanu by Jenny Robins.

Iris Serban photo by Amelia Gregory

Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Laura Theiss by Ella Masters.

I’m sure I may have missed other talent, but hey, if you close a day before everyone else what do you expect?

Carmen Secareanu On/Off by jenny robins
Illustration by Jenny Robins.

Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Cecile Bahnsen
Two designers that I really warmed to were graduates of the RCA that we’ve already covered. Cecile Bahnsen is a Danish designer who works with complex textile combinations inspired by modernism and resulting in delicate laser cut dresses and geometric shapes galore. I loved the batwing oversized coats, this apparently a reference to her teenage years in the 90s.

Cecile Bahnsen photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Cecilie Bahnsen by Ella Masters.

Frances Conteh
Frances Conteh could be found next door – delightfully colourful in the face of so much tasteful monochrome. Another RCA graduate who specialises in beautiful knitwear, she produced a range of slim fitting graphic dresses, massive mohair cardigans and oversized patterned coats in a yummy palate of citrus flavours. Stunning stuff.

Frances Conteh photo by Amelia Gregory

frances conteh - lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Frances Conteh by Jenny Robins.

Carmen Secareanau photo by Amelia Gregory
Carmen Secareanu- lfw - ss11 - jenny robins
Carmen Secareanu by Jenny Robins.

Iris Serban
Another Romanian designer, Iris Serban plays with subtle broken prints, beading and tasteful cream and beige ruffled textures like the carefully laid out pages of a very old book.

Iris Serban photo by Amelia Gregory

Iris Serban by Chris Morris.

Laura Theiss by Ella Masters.

I’m sure I may have missed other talent, but hey, if you close a day before everyone else what do you expect?

Dee-Andrews-Tatty-Devine
Harriet Vine of Tatty Devine by Dee Andrews.

I’m a girl. I quite like jewellery, information pills I can’t help it. Here’s my round up of the sweetest pieces I saw at Somerset House this year.

Phoebe Coleman
Phoebe Coleman was new to LFW this year, viagra 40mg evident in her slightly small simple stand and eager demeanour. But that’s no bad thing! Rather that than some shirty designer who barks at me if I take a photo. It’s understandable that some people get narked what with lots of pesky manufacturers sneaking in to nick their ideas, but I’m only too happy to share my business card so a bit of decorum is always good. Anyway, like I said Phoebe was lovely and chatty. Her first degree was in fine art and she then went onto study jewellery in San Diego, California whilst also producing plays. She’s a big old romantic, so alongside her previous dewdrop collection she has just launched the most darling heart collection at LFW. I love big brash jewellery for making a bit of a noise, but for day to day wear you can’t beat simple gold pendants. So want one. What’s more she’s determined to support local jewellers so everything is made in London.

Phoebe Coleman By Katherine Tromans.

LeJu
I’ve written about the jewellery brand LeJu in Amelia’s Magazine before. Back then they were one of only a few ethical jewellery companies but they now have some strong competition. The brand deserves a special mention for breaking out of the Esthetica ghetto and pushing into more exciting boundaries of design than in previous seasons. Loved this huge piece making best use of dyed vegetable ivory.

Somerset House SS2011 Le Ju
All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Philippa Holland
Over on the Philippa Holland stand I was captivated by an absolutely gorgeous moveable sycamore ring. It comes in both gold and silver options but unfortunately it’s quite pricey. *sad face* Still, if you’re a money bags this is one beautiful and unique bit of jewellery. Philippa is inspired by the ancient and natural worlds as well as English folklore, so she creates lots of exciting bug pieces that obviously appeal to the fashion forward man – there was one fawning over them when I was visiting. Like Phoebe she’s keen to support British craftsmanship and eschews commercial production practices. Last Christmas she did personal engravings on pieces bought as gifts so let’s hope she does that again… what a fabulous idea for a totally unique present.

Philippa Holland By Katherine Tromans.

Cabinet 4 Buba
The Buba stand was all beaded and glittery: Ashish distilled into a handbag. This season Lesley Silwood and Euan McDonald have branched out into jewellery for the first time, and this was what drew me in, though I’d love one of their cross strap bags too now that my damn Vivienne Westwood bag is bust. All the beading is done by their own factory in India, which Lesley assured me means that working conditions are impeccable. Loved the big beaded hoop earrings and long sausage necklaces put together in abstract designs. Just fabulous. Even if she looked at me blankly when I told her I was from Amelia’s Magazine. Clearly not a fan then.

Buba-Jewellery-by-Kellie-Black
Buba Jewellery by Kellie Black.

Tatty Devine
Now, you all know I love Tatty Devine. Not only are Rosie Wolfenden and Harriet Vine two of my very favourite people in the whole of fashiondom but they’re so bloomin’ talented. Since they started off the whole acrylic jewellery thing (ten years ago, my word) they have been so incredibly copied by everyone – from graduate jewellers to Top Shop – that it’s become a bit ridiculous. But NONE of them will touch what Tatty Devine can design – because in terms of imagination and innovation they are always about ten steps ahead of the game. Every season I can’t wait to see what they’ve come up with next, and naturally this collection did not disappoint. Expect a continuation of the Future Mystic theme that has just hit the stands for A/W – with huge crystal necklaces and Esoterica a big influence. Look out especially for some amazing hinged glitter bird necklaces and headpieces. We also went to their party, read about it here.

LFW SS2011-photo by Amelia Gregory
Dee-Andrews-Tatty-Devine
Somerset House SS2011 Tatty Devine

Illustrations by Dee Andrews.

Mawi
We did a huge old feature on Mawi in one of the last issues of Amelia’s Magazine so safe to say that I’m quite a big fan – but somewhat miffed that in the course of writing this article I discovered that Mawi has reposted a pdf of that very same interview on a prominent part of her website with absolutely NO credit at all to where it came from. And I don’t even merit a mention on her “Cool Blogs and Websites” list. So yes, I like Mawi’s jewellery. She does big stuff: be warned, it’s quite heavy. She’s not worried about the current trend towards much smaller pieces (you’re in there Phoebe Coleman!) That’s it folks. Suffice to say I’d be more enthusiastic about the new collection if she bothered to acknowledge the promotion we gave her early on, or indeed to give me the impression she even remembers her appearance in Amelia’s Magazine. Love it when that happens. *sigh*

LFW SS2011-photo by Amelia Gregory

Mawi knuckledusters for the David Koma catwalk show.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Friday October 1st, 2010 12:52 pm

Categories ,Acrylic jewellery, ,Ashish, ,Buba, ,Cabinet 4 Buba, ,David Koma, ,Dee Andrews, ,Esoterica, ,esthetica, ,Euan McDonald, ,Future Mystic, ,Harriet Vine, ,jewellery, ,Katherine Tromans, ,Kellie Black, ,LeJu, ,Lesley Silwood, ,Mawi, ,Phillippa Holland, ,Phoebe Coleman, ,Rosie Wolfenden, ,Somerset House, ,Tatty Devine

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: David Koma (Reprise)

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

Only two seasons ago David Koma presented his – Niki de Saint Phalle inspired – collection of dresses off schedule headlining Freemasons as the winner of Fashion Scout’s Merit Award. The garments were tight, clinic bright and fun – body-con for the Sci-Fi (think The Jetsons crossed with Barberella) obsessives! In contrast Koma’s S/S 2011 collection combined his tightly constructed silhouette with a welcome relax in the hemlines.

All photographs by Amelia Gregory

This season Koma experimented with the essence of ballet, dosage hardening the oh-so-familiar shape of the tutu with bold geometric shapes. The fabric of the dresses constricted around the chest before dropping softly into swishing pleats.

Illustration by Andrea Peterson

During the course of LFW, approved Satu Fox, my fellow Amelia’s Magazine correspondence and I discussed which designers Cheryl Cole might wear later this year on X Factor. As a rule I often avoid X-Factor but remain aware of the concentrated gaze directed towards the sartorial choices of the female presenters, where as Simon and Louie appear to skate through the entire series in identical tatty threads.

As if answering Satu’s and I’s musings, David Koma’s produced a series of (ignoring the questionable use of snake) python adorned Egypitan column dresses in two alternatives: either ever so slightly garish gold or a dramatic black. Both looks which would definately wow on the X-Factor.

Illustration by Gareth A Hopkins

The use of python was upsetting, one can just about understand the development of fur coats, when the material was a hunting by-product in sub-zero weather conditions. It still remains harder to justify the use of fur as a luxurious adornment. Subsequently how does one justify the use of Python? It has no qualities, I am aware of other than the scream of wealth. Is python skin sourced via a farm? Or is the skin obtained after an animal dies of natural causes?

llustration by Gareth A Hopkins

Amelia had the good fortune to ask this outstandingly young designer (24!) about his decision to use Python Skin, you can read the intriguing outcome to their conversation here.

Designers take a leaf out of Stella McCartney’s book and research luxury alternatives to animal products!

llustration by Gareth A Hopkins

It’s been intriguing to see numerous designers plundering the back catalogues of Abstract Artists, from Cooperative Design’s wonderful reinvention of the Bauhaus through their use of Memphis School of Furniture Design (who also popped up in Holly Fulton’s press release) to David Koma’s application of bold abstract inspired shape from Fernand Leger.

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Tuesday September 28th, 2010 1:20 pm

Categories ,Artist Andrea, ,BFC, ,BFC Tent, ,Cheryl Cole, ,David Koma, ,Farmed, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,grthink, ,Holly Fulton, ,London Fashion Week, ,Python, ,Satu Fox, ,X Factor

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: David Koma

LFW David Koma Maria del Carmen Smith
David Koma by Maria del Carmen Smith.

Last Monday’s shows opened with a double whammy from David Koma and Holly Fulton, illness which I shall review in separate blogs.

LFW David Koma by Maria del Carmen Smith
David Koma by Maria del Carmen Smith.

We wrote about David Koma as far back as his longer named incarnation when he graduated from his Central Saint Martins BA way back in 2007. His rise in popularity since then has been unstoppable, clothing many high profile celebrities including modern day sweetheart Cheryl Cole – in a heavily embellished dress for the X Factor. It was an instant talking point.

His modern take on glamour owes much to an eclectic life, equally split between three countries where David has spent appreciable amounts of time and of which this 24 year old regards himself as equal citizen. He was born and spent his early years in Georgia before moving to St Petersburg to study classical drawing (and which is where he presumably met his Russian wife). He then relocated again to the UK, where he studied at Saint Martins under the expert tutelage of Louise Wilson, who he idolises.

LFW David Koma by Maria del Carmen Smith
David Koma by Maria del Carmen Smith.

For S/S 2011 his collection was inspired by The Mariinsky Theatre of Saint Petersburg, and memories of Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake. A series of pleated skater dresses in sugary colours moved swiftly through abstract monochrome tailoring, shades of lemony yellow and onto gold party pieces, all accessorised by sky high platforms and big metal knuckledusters courtesy of a collaboration with Mawi.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

In official parlance this translates pretty much thus: Ballet silhouettes were combined with the more graphic shapes of cubist artist Fernand Leger to explore contradictions of fragility with physical and emotional strength.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
One cleverly cut dress even had me fooled that a model’s waist could be smaller than seems physically possible: I did an instant double take when I looked back at this photo.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

I loved this collection, so was a bit discombobulated when I discovered that David had used copious python skin in his show. Where does python come from? Were they caught in the wild or farmed? It’s not an industry I know much about, so when I ran into David at his New Gen stand I decided to give him a bit of a grilling.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

A quick question turned into a half an hour chat during which David was utterly charming the entire time. He’s determinedly upbeat about life and feels blessed to do what he loves the most; his precocious rise surely the result of much hard work as well as obvious talent.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

So, back to that python skin. It comes from an accredited factory farm – for pythons and crocodiles are farmed much as mink is. I feel quite uncomfortable about this – I am okay with the use of leather for outer clothing and shoes, safe in the knowledge that it is very much the waste product of a meat industry that is unlikely to go anywhere anytime soon.

Somerset House SS2011 David Koma
David Koma at Somerset House.

But I don’t buy into the idea that it’s ethically okay to farm animals purely to provide us with luxury goods – and no matter how accredited a farm might be on paper there are always going to be corners cut in reality on the factory floor. David’s take on it is that he is against fast consumerism, and therefore wants to create luxury garments that will be treasured for a long time. For this to be possible he wants to chose the best possible materials available – and if that means stripping a snake then so be it – that they will live on in a beautiful garment is enough for him. And he does not feel that fake fur or leather is a particularly ethical substitute, a fact with which I tend to agree. Another fair point he makes is that he would rather buy from a reputable farm than encourage any kind of black market. But this surely begs the question, how is a black market encouraged – except by the use of python leather in luxury must-have items? If you are able to remove questions of provenance from your mind all that gold python is very very beautiful.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory
Knuckledusters from Mawi.

David also admitted that he is considering the use of fur in his next collection, but as we parted he said I had made him think a bit more about this. Whether my words have had any effect remains to be seen but I really appreciate that he didn’t balk under my questioning and seems genuinely to be interested in engaging in the origin of his materials: he’s a very talented and increasingly influential designer and I hope he’ll make educated decisions in the future. In the meantime enjoy our pictures… and forget about any real live snakes in cages if you can.

David Koma SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

David Koma Gold Python on White By Fiona M Chapelle
David Koma “Gold Python on White” by Fiona M Chapelle.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 27th, 2010 1:11 pm

Categories ,ballet, ,Central Saint Martins, ,Cheryl Cole, ,David Koma, ,Fernand Leger, ,Fiona M Chapelle, ,Fur, ,georgia, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Louise Wilson, ,Maria del Carmen Smith, ,Mawi, ,New Gen, ,Python skin, ,Russia!, ,Somerset House, ,St Petersburg, ,Swan Lake, ,The Mariinsky Theatre, ,X Factor

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton (reprise)

LFW-Antipodium-Andrea-Peterson
Illustration by Lesley Barnes

Monday Morning at 9.45 saw the BFC tent divided between the awesome designs of Holly Fulton and David Koma. Where David showed silhouetted Egypitian Columns softened with a touch of the Ballet. Holly said relax, remedy lets imagine we’re on a luxious 80′s cruise ship where Joan Collins is directing the dress code.

Illustration by Natsuki Otani

Holly’s signature prints were out in force adorning the pinafore dresses, skirts, wide legged pants, (I have recently discovered these are called ‘Palazzo Trousers’) to the perfect yachting shorts. Outfits were kept crisp with the addition of a simple tee that radiated holiday in the South of France in both colour and cut.

All photographs by Amelia Gregory

The stylists of Gossip Girl, (potentially the modern version of Dallas??) must be crooning over a collection made for those moments, when one is scheming for the latest eligible bachelor and needing to look absolutely fabulous.

Holly Fulton’s nod to what is fast becoming the tagline, “Spring Summer” came by the way of the itsy bitsy bikini and a full on Art Deco Swimsuit (love the reinvention of the swimsuit over the past few seasons.)

The Art Deco references were embellished this season with a nod to the incredible designs of Memphis, furniture design which has previously inspired the collections of Cooperative Designs. The bold ideas rooted in Art Deco found a home not only in the garments but in Fulton’s signature clutches and jewellery which adorned the models as they strode down the catwalk on spindly Christian Louboutin heels.

Illustration by Natsuki Otani

After flicking through a few reviews you obtain a sense that the fashion world is rooting for Holly to succeed, unsurprising really, considering the vibrant vision that inhabits every part of the collection.

One final word though, as covered by Amelia.. Holly relax and leave out the python next time!

Written by Sally Mumby-Croft on Tuesday September 28th, 2010 3:57 pm

Categories ,Cruise, ,David Koma, ,Holly Fulton, ,Joan Collins, ,London Fashion Week, ,Memphis

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2011 Catwalk Review: Holly Fulton

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Christopher Shannon burst onto the catwalk in true and typical chavvy style to launch menswear day, see for me at least, more about on Wednesday. His wasn’t the first show; we didn’t get tickets for Lou Dalton (a real shame, as I was really looking forward to that one) or Topman Design (meh). There’s a strange feeling in the air on LFW’s Wednesday – it’s eerily quiet, people are more relaxed and you could actually swing a cat around in the press room, should you desire, for the first time in five days.

Shannon showed alongside JW Anderson in the BFC space, but even with these two heavyweights of menswear design presenting back to back, the venue still wasn’t full. It’s a shame that there isn’t as much interest in menswear, but the editors had all shipped off to Milan, I guess…

Shannon was up first and his show featured some of my favourite guilty pleasure tracks – Blu Cantrell, for instance. Tune! This kind of music sits hand in hand with his unique blend of street-inspired sportswear and edgy, boyish tailoring. The first looks were all crisp white numbers, featuring engineered t-shirts with geometric holes, multi-pocketed shorts and bucket hats, followed by sweaters with mesh details. I like Shannon’s fancy-free approach to menswear – it’s for young, hip individuals who care about style but not about stuffy suits.

Progressing into outerwear, the collection bore sports-luxe jackets, more mesh, and shorter shorts. Shannon’s garish but great rucksacks, a long-term callabo with Eastpak, made an appearance in similar tones as last season – pale greys and baby blues.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Further in, Shannon’s signature camo-graffiti prints showed up, bringing a welcomed burst of colour in the form of pale blues. I like this print A LOT – it works on padded puffas, shorts and even bucket hats (although I doubt I’ll be seen in the entire get up – the pattern is intense and it needs breaking up a little, I think).

His scally charm shone through on more printed numbers, where sections had been cut away, and the reappearing camo print. Panelled trousers, though, displayed the menswear designer’s continual progression – sand chinos displayed oblong sections in luscious pastel colours made the move from teenage fashion. Vibrant yellows hinted at that ballsy appeal many of us were looking for.

Faces were painted like colloquial masks, apparently inspired by longing for a holiday, but I’m going to ignore this literal influence — as much as it looked fun, it fought to distract from some pretty sophisticated tailoring. All in all, a toned-down collection compared to what we are used to. As the chavvy charmer continues to grow up, so will – I hope – his collections.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Illustration by Gemma Randall

Christopher Shannon burst onto the catwalk in true and typical chavvy style to launch menswear day, find for me at least, on Wednesday. His wasn’t the first show; we didn’t get tickets for Lou Dalton (a real shame, as I was really looking forward to that one) or Topman Design (meh). There’s a strange feeling in the air on LFW’s Wednesday – it’s eerily quiet, people are more relaxed and you could actually swing a cat around in the press room, should you desire, for the first time in five days.

Illustration by Gemma Randall

All photography by Matt Bramford

LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

For S/S 2011 Holly Fulton took inspiration from Joan Collins and 60s cruise wear as her “ladies” went on a fantastical tour of luxury living in all the most chic resorts: Monaco, order Egypt, ed Brazil, Hollywood. If this woman exists in reality she would surely be the most shallow creature on the planet, but such is the way of fashion: it thrives on escapism.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Holly Fulton by Michelle Urvall Nyrén.

This was the first Holly Fulton catwalk show I’ve attended, and being a fan I was intrigued to see how her aesthetic has held up in a year when her influence on the high street has been massive – particularly where large jewellery is concerned.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

The show started strongly with a bright orange cracked paving print blouse atop a tiered fringed pencil skirt before giving way to a look that I would say took as much inspiration from the flared shapes of the 70s as it did the decade before. Yellow skater style flared skirts featured laser cut cocktail patterns. Heels were so high one model was forced to remove hers for the finale.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

LFW Holly Fulton by KAYLEIGH BLUCK
Holly Fulton by Kayleigh Bluck.

Holly is at her strongest when she puts together Aztec, Aboriginal and Memphis School inspired appliques on the front of long panels. Flares, shift dresses and maxi skirts provided ample opportunity for this, accessorised with the usual fabulous necklaces and decorated clutch bags. They were accompanied by suitably luxe big earrings and big hair.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

The collection only started to falter once towards the end, when Holly sent a few dresses down the runway that seemed obviously tacked on to appease sponsors Swarovski. Goodness knows why she decided to finish on these less polished numbers, instead of interspersing them through the whole show.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Holly Fulton by Aniela Murphy.

Like David Koma before her Holly used python, this time in its natural colouring as part of heavily textured patterning so that it was less obvious from afar. Maybe a luxury feel demands some kind of obvious domination over the rest of the world, but I’m not sure I like this new trend towards exotic animal skins (see my David Koma blog for more on my thoughts). Other than this blip she remains an innovative and individual designer who’s very definitely one step ahead of her imitators.

Holly Fulton SS2011 photo by Amelia Gregory

Written by Amelia Gregory on Monday September 27th, 2010 2:36 pm

Categories ,1960s, ,1970s, ,Aboriginal, ,Aniela Murphy, ,Aztec, ,BFC Tent, ,David Koma, ,Holly Fulton, ,Joan Collins, ,Kayleigh Bluck, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Memphis School, ,Michelle Urvall Nyrén, ,Python skin, ,Swarovski

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week S/S 2012 Catwalk Review: David Koma

David Koma SS12 by Gilly Rochester
David Koma S/S 2012 by Gilly Rochester.

Ahhhhh… David Koma. One of London‘s most feted new design talents and a hot ticket on a Tuesday you would think, cialis 40mg but this show was far from full let alone packed, viagra with people scurrying forwards to the front row from all sides as the show began. Beneath the glassed roof of the old Waterloo Eurostar terminal David Koma presented a beautiful collection on some so-so models. I’d heard rumours that an early start to Milan was dragging off the more important parts of the fashion industry but if ever there was proof this was it.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

David Koma Illustration By Kassie Berry
David Koma S/S 2012 by Kassie Berry.

Despite some very interesting jutting heads and flapping arms I loved this collection, wherein David Koma played with shapes and textural movement like never before. A silky cream coloured concoction opened the show, with what amounted to a huge belt gathered at the waist into multi-layered loose pleats, inspired by African Zulu style. Underneath the most gauzy of under garments represented the majority of the dress, cut up by abstract devore shapes that were inspired by a combination of Polynesian tribal body paint and the work of artist Kim Joon.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

A gradual hint of summery colour was brought to the proceedings through the use of lime green and bright rose pink on sleeves and behind the devore cut outs in chest panels. As in many other collections skirted shapes encompassed both pencil and a wider skater shape, but because of the layering it was here that the different looks worked at their seamless best.

David Koma by Gareth A Hopkins
David Koma S/S 2012 by Gareth A Hopkins.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

High heels by Alain Quilici were chunky with wide t-bar sections that frilled out in an echo of the waist pleats. Hair featured multiple partings similar to the abstract designs on clothing. Check out the amazing coloured Minx Nails up close in this blog on Inspirational.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

david_koma_by_ada_jusic
David Koma S/S 2012 by Ada Jusic.

With a rattle of swaying hips iridescent perspex adornments – a collaboration with jewellery designer Sarah Angold – began to spread across thighs and breasts. A series of inky black dresses were highlighted in turquoise before the final pieces became engulfed in an oily rainbow of perspex embellishment, this time repeated in exquisite pearlised sequin designs paired with more of that luscious lime. Yum.

David Koma SS 2011 review-photo by Amelia Gregory

David Koma S/S 2011. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Written by Amelia Gregory on Wednesday September 28th, 2011 2:47 pm

Categories ,abstract, ,Ada Jusic, ,African, ,Alain Quilici, ,Belts, ,David Koma, ,Devore, ,Embellishment, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Gilly Rochester, ,Inspirational, ,Iridescent, ,jewellery, ,Kassie Berry, ,Kim Joon, ,lfw, ,London Fashion Week, ,Minx Nails, ,Pearlised, ,pencil skirt, ,Perspex, ,Pleated, ,Polynesian, ,S/S 2012, ,Sarah Angold, ,Skater Skirt, ,Tribal patterns, ,Waterloo Eurostar Terminal, ,Zulu

Amelia’s Magazine | London Fashion Week A/W 2011 Womenswear Preview

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

I’ll never say a bad word about Mr Paul Costelloe. His was the first on-schedule show I ever saw, drug visit this back in 2008. It was a disaster – you can read my review here (my have we come a long way with our fashion week reviews). Despite that particular experience being pretty traumatic, viagra 40mg I always look forward to what he’ll present us each season, and I genuinely believe he’s the most underrated designer on the schedule – AND he always gets that hideous graveyard 9.30am opening slot. Anyway, enough of the pity, I’m sure he gets along just fine.

Paul Costelloe chatting outside the tent, post-show. All photography by Matt Bramford

Of course, this wouldn’t be fashion week without a cycling trauma, and it was on Friday morning that my back brake completely went so I was left only with the front one, guaranteed to send me flying over the handlebars should I actually need to stop. A quick trip into miserable Evans Cycles soon sorted this but meant I had to dash like a lunatic to Somerset House and just managed to leg it inside before the show started.

Illustration by Lesley Barnes

I was disappointed not to be saddled up against those two lovely old dears I met last time – this time I endured a rather unforgiving fashion blogger. I tend to stand at the top of one of the aisles to secure good pictures, but said fashion blogger deemed it acceptable to stand in front of me. I politely explained that I had chosen that spot on purpose, and I would really appreciate it if she’d take her enormous Mulberry bag and ridiculously large coat somewhere else. She moved an inch to the left. Cheers, then!

God I’m going on a bit, aren’t I? Well, the show itself was brilliant. This season saw Costelloe move in a more sophisticated direction. The catwalk was awash with luxurious tweeds and tartans in vibrant colours. Structured twin-sets with a contemporary edge stood side-by-side a-line dresses in unusual materials; delicious floral prints were teamed with cropped blazers, while hints of military on more a-line dresses were complimented with a roaring forties/fabulous fifties soundtrack of Bobby Darin and The Andrews Sisters (maybe). Poker-straight red wigs added a sexy, playful edge to what is a more mature range of womenswear.

Last season I wasn’t that struck on the menswear, but this year I am ALL OVER IT. Again, taking a more sophisticated direction, sharp suits (in similar tartans and tweeds to those seen on the girls) were aplenty. Floor length coats and double-breasted blazers really complimented the womenswear. Contrasting trousers in really bright colours were paired with tame blazers, allowing Costelloe’s men to be quirky but smart at the same time.

Illustration by Maria Papadimitriou

It was a massive collection – the biggest I saw during the day – but each piece had been carefully selected to compliment the next and never was it boring. The only way I could have enjoyed the show more was if Unforgiving Fashion Blogger hadn’t been such a knob. Hilariously she was fighting for my prime photographer’s spot to take pictures with her Blackberry! Well, I ask you.

Another great outing for PC, though. Long may he reign – in a sea of often miserable A/W 2011 dark collections, his whimsical approach and playful colours are a ray of sunshine.

All photography by Matt Bramford

Jena Theo Matilde Sazio Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, viagra 60mg Illustration by Matilde Sazio

I was ushered in through the door by a geezer of a Londoner chap, symptoms straight through to a high heeled officious lady, then again to the very highest heels clinking their way to the front row to show me my seat. There were bags on my seat. Bags filled with goodies. Splendid. The lady next to me was bouncing her baby on her knee, as said baby was knawing on a pain au chocolat. “Nice earmuffs” I said to her, pointing towards her penguin earmuffs on her head. “To protect her from the sound. It can get very loud. But she does love it here. Loves the shows.” How much do I want a chilled out, cute baby like her. Also, cool mother! I know mothers who wouldn’t take their child to Tescos for fear of its screaming the flourescently lit shed down. To the left, was a mad, bright white, highly lit, flashing, mini bulb, sensation. Magic eyes, transfixing, blinding… The lady next to me shields her eyes for a bit, because of the intensity! Then it all went dark and we were treated to intro music as the anticipation built. Dum, dum, dum….dum… dum. EXCITED.

Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, Illustration by Karina Yarv

The show began. I was pleased to see that what was being presented was completely wearable. Definitely in London. Perhaps less so in Bristol – it was slightly ‘too’ urban for the West Country. However, if I had a choice (and el cash), some of those pieces would be getting worn in Falfael King and that secret bar we’ve been meaning to go to for a while… at least supper club. Or – ah see, I kind of want to move to London- again. Don’t get the wrong impression of Briz, I beg you. Anyway, the show was very charcoal, black and cream orientated. The models all had black stripes across their eyes and otherwise bare faces. This made them look like mysterious, moody superheros. I liked it, as it really set of the simple coloured, pieces; the models all expressionless (course), their masks and the movement of the light or dark pieces worked together perfectly. It felt like we were on the sea, with norwegian heroines. Swishing slowly about, their heels never falter, their gaze exact, the path has been set and the grey skies are dappled with stars, as the storm takes hold. These strong warriors will take us with their capes flowing behind them, their hair dancing in the wind.

Jena.Theo Valkyrie by Matilde Sazio Jena.Theo LFW A/W 2011, Illustration by Matilde Sazio

My favourite piece was one with an almost bustling at the back, flowing down to the ground, in one swipe. The front was a mini, the back was the drama, the fantasy. I would love to wear this one standing at the front of a ship. Not a ferry, a ship. Jena.Theo designs were indeed simple, but they are deserving of their sparkling lights.

Les Chiffoniers by Abby Wright

Slinky t-shirts, viagra order seriously sprayed on leggings and rocky accessories have defined Les Chiffoniers for the last four years. With a winning formula, sildenafil they like to stick to a very tight remit when it comes to their designs and style. Famed for their perfect fit leather leggings, they exploded into fashion consciousness when icon Kate Moss was snapped stumbling round Glastonbury in a shiny PVC pair. Their SS11 collection features the classic black version with double air zippers in PVC and matte, as well as new stone washed suede versions which had a softer appeal. The label, owned by Leena Similu tend to produce a core collection of beautiful leggings, together with chiffon tops and dresses so expect more variations on this selection this season.

Holly Fulton by Avril Kelly

I have loved Holly Fulton’s designs for years and for me, she seems to get it right every time. This year, once again, she is part of the Newgen showcase for LFW. Her SS11 was an absolute triumph: a collection referencing decadent and luxury cruise lining days, it hinted at a myriad of exotic, far flung locations yet her signature geometric, stylised pattering was still key to the look. Over the last four collections she has produced, Fulton has referenced a vast range of inspirations: from Joan Collins to New York skyscrapers, she cleverly transforms each idea into a consistent, and wearable style. A recent collaboration with online retail giant Asos has cemented her status as one of Britain’s top young designers.

David Koma by Gareth Hopkins

I don’t even need to write that David Koma is one to watch. Since his debut, his status has risen so much so that celebrities including Lady Gaga and Rihanna are clamouring to get into his dresses. At the astonishingly young age of 24, he has already achieved the holy grail of young designer aspirations – a collaboration with Topshop, and was also awarded NEWGEN sponsorship last season. Koma’s style is bold, blocky and futuristic. Using interesting adornments such as bent or tubular pieces of metal and reflective pieces of Perspex, his body conscious designs are edgy and confident.

Last season we enjoyed his refined show of grown up and elegant pieces, but were surprised at the use of python skin in a number of the dresses – Amelia had the chance to ask him about it and you can read the interview here. It will be interesting to see which materials he uses for AW, watch this space (until Monday, that is!)

Eudon Choi by Karolina Burdon

Eudon Choi started his eponymous label 2 years ago after stints at Twenty8Twelve and All Saints. With clothes that reflect these experiences, his pieces are utilitarian in character, featuring masculine detailing and reworked vintage garments. Last year he received both the VFS Merit Award and the BFC/Elle Talent Pad. His collection will show on Friday, the first day of LFW; read our review of his SS11 collection here.

One of our faves, knit fanatic Craig Lawrence will be showing his new collection in the Portico rooms this February, the same as last season – read Matt’s review of his SS11 collection here.

Craig Lawrence by Rukmunal Hakim

Simplistic and assured, Lawrence is a pro when it comes to seeking out and appropriately using the best wool yarns (my sister is a textile designer and I know how hard this actually is). The movement within the pieces sets him apart as having an in-depth knowledge of the materials he’s working with and the ability to use them in an ethically minded way. We Like. A Lot.

MariaFrancescaPepe by Sandra Contreras

‘The underworld, amulets and Salvador Dali’ provide inspiration for MariaFrancescaPepe’s new collection. Pioneering the concept that jewellery should be the focal point of an outfit, Jewellery-Wear is her brainchild and has produced the iconic MFP tubular – a signature necklace which appears in every collection in different variations.

Christopher Raeburn by Gemma Smith

Christopher Raeburn’s designs differed from the majority of SS11’s collections, gone were floaty dresses in florals and pastel, and not a chino in sight. Instead he produced a number of festival-worthy parkers and jackets made from old parachutes and featuring cute dotty patterns. The effect was visually impressive as the lightweight material was slightly transparent so all the seams and joins were exposed. As an exciting and inventive designer, I am looking forward to see how he uses these qualities to create a warmer, AW collection.

Written by Florence Massey on Saturday February 19th, 2011 7:10 pm

Categories ,AW11, ,Christopher Raeburn, ,Craig Lawrence, ,David Koma, ,Eudon Choi, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Holly Fulton, ,Les Chiffoniers, ,london, ,London Fashion Week, ,MariaFrancescaPepe

Amelia’s Magazine | Graduate Fashion Week 2012 Gala Awards Ceremony: Part One

Matthew Williamson by Ruth Joyce

Twelve hundred students descend on Earls Court Two for Graduate Fashion Week every year. About a quarter of them get the opportunity to showcase their collections during one of the 16 fashion shows that are held over four days. In a dramatic climax – the Gala Awards show – 10 students are selected to present their work for a second time in the hope of receiving the coveted Gold Award.

All photography by Matt Bramford

So, like the fashion industry itself, chances of making it are pretty slim. 10 incredible collections graced the catwalk in the finale and I honestly couldn’t pick a winner – celebrity judges like Matthew Williamson and Julien Macdonald commented on the incredible standard exhibited of not only those who had been selected as a Gold Award nominee, but every college.

Julien Macdonald by Claire Kearns

Here’s a photographic whistle-stop tour of the awards ceremony:

INTERNATIONAL AWARD

Yvonne Kwok – Amsterdam Fashion Institute

Zhu Liyuanzi – Istituto Marangoni Milan

WINNER: Karen Jessen – ESMOD Berlin, presented by Julien Macdonald, Sara Maino from Vogue Italia & Caroline Burstein from Browns.

STUART PETERS KNITWEAR AWARD

Emma Walsh – Nottingham Trent University

Jousianne Propp – Manchester Metropolitan University

Caitlin Charles Jones – Kingston University

Judges Ruth Chapman from Matches, Erica Peters from Stuart Peters and knitwear designer Mark Fast couldn’t decide, so Caitlin and Jousianne both scooped the award!

ZANDRA RHODES TEXTILES AWARD

Daisy Lowe by Ruth Joyce

Amelia Smith – Northumbria University

Dae-Byn Lee – Nottingham Trent University

Roz Lamkin – Manchester Metropolitan University

WINNER: Xiaoping Huang – UCLAN, presented by Daisy Lowe and Mary Katrantzou

BARCLAYS NEW BUSINESS AWARD

Holly Reid – UCLAN, presented by Tabitha Somerset-Webb (Project D) and Michelle Mone OBE

FASHION INNOVATION AWARD

Ami Collins – UCLAN, presented by Lorraine Candy of ELLE magazine and designer David Koma

MEDIA & DESIGN AWARD

Kerrie Donelly – UCA Epsom, presented by Fashion Editor-at-Large Melanie Rickey and ID magazine‘s Jefferson Hack (swoon)

STAND DESIGN AWARD

Edinburgh College of Art, presented by designer Fred Butler and Harvey Nichols‘ Yuri Nakamura

GEORGE BEST OF BRITISH AWARD

Susanna Yi – University of East London, presented by TV presenter Caroline Flack and ASDA fashion director Fiona Lambert

GEORGE CHILDRENSWEAR AWARD

Harriet Simons – Colchester, presented by singer Louise Redknapp and Fiona Lambert

MULBERRY ACCESSORIES AWARD

Laura Smallwood – Kingston University, presented by Mulberry‘s Tori Campbell

ETHICAL AWARD

Sarah Murphy, Northumbria – presented by stylist Jocelyn Whipple and film producer/eco hero Livia Firth

LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD

Legendary catwalk photographer Chris Moore, presented by designer Jeff Banks

Part Two, featuring the major players and the menswear, womenswear and Gold Award winners, coming soon…!

Written by Matt Bramford on Wednesday June 20th, 2012 10:15 am

Categories ,accessories, ,Amelia Smith, ,Ami Collins, ,Amsterdam Fashion Institute, ,ASDA, ,Awards, ,Caitlin Charles Jones, ,Caroline Flack, ,Caryn Franklin, ,Catwalking.com, ,Ceremony, ,Childrenswear, ,Chris Moore, ,Claire Kearns, ,Colchester, ,Dae-Byn Lee, ,daisy lowe, ,David Koma, ,Earls Court Two, ,Eco Age, ,Elle, ,Emma Walsh, ,Erica Peters, ,ESMOD Berlin, ,Essex, ,fashion, ,Fiona Lambert, ,Fred Butler, ,Gala, ,George, ,Gold Award, ,Graduate Fashion Week, ,Harvey Nichols, ,Holly Reid, ,ID Magazine, ,international, ,Istituto Marangoni Milan, ,Jeff Banks, ,Jefferson Hack, ,Jousianne Propp, ,Julien McDonald, ,Karen Jesson, ,Kerrie Donnelly, ,Kingston University London, ,knitwear, ,Laura Smallwood, ,Lifetime Achievement, ,Livia Firth, ,Lorraine Candy, ,Louise Redknapp, ,Manchester Metropolitan University, ,Mark Fast, ,Mary Katrantzou, ,matches, ,Matt Bramford, ,Matthew Williamson, ,Melanie Rickey, ,menswear, ,Michelle Mone OBE, ,Mulberry, ,New Business, ,Northumbria University, ,Nottingham Trent University, ,Project D, ,Roz Lamkin, ,Ruth Chapman, ,Ruth Joyce, ,show, ,Stuart Peters, ,Susanna Yi, ,Tabitha Somerset-Webb, ,Tori Campbell, ,UCA Epsom, ,UCLan, ,UEL, ,Womenswear, ,Xiaoping Huang, ,Yuri Nakamura, ,Yvonne Kwok, ,Zhu Liyuanzi

Amelia’s Magazine | Heohwan Simulation: London Fashion Week S/S 2013 Catwalk Review

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gaarte.

Heohwan Simulation is the latest recipient of the Fashion Scout Merit Award, which entitles him to £25,000 worth of support over three seasons to build his label. Previous winners include David Koma and Georgia Hardinge, so we can expect great things from this fledgling brand.

Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins.

Last season Heohwan Simulation showed with Ones to Watch but this time he was able to stage his own fully fledged catwalk show. Designer Hwan Heo, an RCA graduate, continued in his exploration of hard edged womenswear inspired by his background as a menswear graduate.

Heohwan Simulation SS 2013 September 2012-photography by Amelia Gregory

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013. All photography by Amelia Gregory.

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gaarte.

This was a confident showing which built on his last collection: boxy triangular shapes were softened with the application of abstract painterly placement prints, mesh textures and checks. Slate, ivory and camel tones were worn with bright grassy green and sunshine yellow, whilst belts were wide and zips were prominent, often traversing the length of a garment. I particularly liked the coats: a crop swing jacket with a single double breasted fastening and a blouson worn with this season’s favourite wide legged trousers. It will be interesting to watch Hwan Heo’s progress over the next few seasons.

Heohwan Simulation S/S 2013 by Gareth A Hopkins.

<a target="_blank" href="http://www.vimeo.com/49468665" rel="noopener">http://www.vimeo.com/49468665</a>

Written by Amelia Gregory on Thursday September 20th, 2012 9:23 am

Categories ,David Koma, ,Fashion Scout, ,Freemasons’ Hall, ,Gaarte, ,Gareth A Hopkins, ,Georgia Hardinge, ,Heohwan Simulation, ,Hwan Heo, ,LFW. S/S 2013, ,Merit Award, ,Ones To Watch, ,rca

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